Tell me when this thread is updated: 2002 Ford Escape brake problem 2001 Escape w/ automatic transmission stuck in ... 2002 escape shaking while idle, exhaust shakes ... 2011 ford escape radio + and - buttons on driver's steering 2001 Escape V6 misfire and shuddering Find what you want! Search Ford Escape Forum NowAir filter noise is a very common problem in residential heating and air conditioning equipment and there are many causes. Although the noise gets your attention, it may only be a symptom of a much bigger problem. Undersized return grills and return ducts are unfortunately very common. They can also be the most difficult and costly problems to correct. However, there some other solutions you can try. Although they won’t fix the real problem that causes of the noise, they may eliminate the noise. The most common air filters used in residential heating and air conditioning systems are pleated filters and they often don’t fit well into the return grill or air handler.

Return air, like electricity and water, takes the path of least resistance and the path of least resistance is often around the air filter instead of through it. Unfortunately when air passes through these narrow spaces between the filter and the filter housing, it can cause whistling or even hissing noises that quickly become very annoying. Here are 5 Easy Solutions to Whistling and Hissing Noises that Don’t Require a Contractor: Ensure your air filter is the proper size for the application. This often means you have to buy custom sized filters instead of the common sizes supplied at hardware stores but the better the fit, the less likely it is that air will pass around the filter. In the return grill or the filter rack, which is often difficult to reach, you can install foam tape, which will act as a gasket, around the section where the filter sits. This helps to create a tighter fit. However, an easier alternative may be to add foam weather stripping tape to each new air filter you install.

Foam tape can often be found at your local hardware store in 1/4 inch or 1/2 thicknesses. There are also many more options available at Amazon or FoamTapes.net Use less efficient filters. Pleated filters have MERV Ratings and the higher the number is the greater the resistance to air flow. Unfortunately, filters with lower MERV ratings won’t clean the air as well as filters with higher ratings. Change your filter more often. If you only begin hearing air noises after the filter has been installed for some time, you may not be changing your filter often enough. As dirt builds up on the filter air flow resistance increases and this can result in air going around the filter instead of through it. Often when return grills are mounted in the ceiling and the filter is loose it gets sucked up against the duct opening causing a thud every time the fan starts. This can be corrected by building up the inner surface that the filter hits against so that the filter fits firmly into place and there is no space between the filter and the duct opening for the filter to move (as listed in number 2 above).

A better solution is to install a return air filter which is designed specifically to be installed in return air grills. This is certainly not every potential problem that may cause your filters to be noisy but these tips will help you to solve some of the most common problems you may encounter.I hope you found the information in this article helpful. Doberman Puppies For Sale In Miami FlIf so, please hit the like button and share it with your friends.Removing Delta Bathtub Spout Select All Posts By This UserBlinds Kuching Can't wait to try it on the iPhono ....... still waiting Location: Minnetonka, Minnesota, USA Just received 2 of these (iPower) for 9V/1.5A. I am using one with my iUSBPower and want to use the second one for my Wyred4Sound Remedy Re-clocker.

The W4S unit accepts 9V 0.2A PSU (says that 12V can be used, as well) with 2.5mm barrel and (+) is on the inside of the connector (positive polarity). Unfortunately, the iPower came with no documentation and neither the wall-wart itself, nor anything I can find on-line, indicates the polarity of the stock connector on the iPower (really annoying). Finally, there are 4 additional connector/adaptors in the box (which is nice, by the way), but also nothing to indicate if any of these reverse polarity. I'd rather NOT fry my W4S, so I am hoping someone knows the default polarity of the iPower (and, from what I can tell, all iFi Audio products that use their PSUs).It did not work with my SMSL M8 DAC, for some reason. Tested it with my multimeter, and with red + probe down center it read 9.4V, so that should answer your question - this was for the widest plug tip BTW. Stock A/C adapter was around 8.7V I think. Only one plug fit on the M8 DC input, so maybe it wasn't connecting right.

I've opened a ticket with iFi. Originally Posted by Yoochoobb I heard from iFi Audio, confirming your result (i.e. positive tip), but the support person wanted confirmation, so I was waiting to post. Not sure if I will also see any documentation on the remaining tips. Originally Posted by Krutsch From iFi Audio today: Confirmed with our team that it is centre positive. Also the volts must stay the same but amps can be lower. 9v / 1.5a = iPower 9v / 1a = A device The iPower will work. 9v / 2a = B device The iPower won't work. We would advise you to contact the manufacturer of your device to 100% confirm the specifications before use. Any further questions please don't hesitate to ask. Location: Mid Johor, Malaysia. Originally Posted by G1Snd I just received my 9V iPower yesterday. I'm using it with the iUSB. Ever since I first plugged in the iPower, it has made a very high pitched EEEEEE! I tried it in other outlets in my house, and heard the same noise.

The pitch of the noise does vary according to the electric draw on the iPower. For example: the noise pitch when I'm playing music over USB is different from when it is just sitting idle. The noise is easily audible to me from half way across the room. The noise doesn't seem to affect the function of the iPower, it just irritates me whenever I'm in the room. Does anyone else hear their 9V iPower making the EEEEEEE! I'd like to find out if I just have a noisy iPower that needs exchanged or if they all make the noise. Almost forgot to mention, the original iFi power adapter that came with the iUSB is silent. The first thing I'll check if whether you have the barrel connector in the correct configuration. It should be + on the insider and - on the outside. Secondly, I won't try to use the iPower adapter again but instead contact iFi immediately The tip I tried was + on the inside. I assume the others would be the same but I have not tested those yet. Anyway, it matches the polarity on my SMSL M8 DAC power adapter.

There is no high pitched whining with my unit, or any other sound. I got a response to my support ticket, asking for the serial # and to confirm my DAC DC input polarity. Apparently it *should* work - "unless the plug adapter plate is fully inserted and latched, turned on it should just work." I think they meant "unless... ...is NOT fully inserted and latched, turned on it should just work". Even so, mine is just a loose plug-in fit, and there is no "latch" mechanism as far as I can tell. I wish there was a manual for this device. I asked them to clarify the "latch" part. No high pitched noise with the two units I have Location: West Chester, PA Originally Posted by Krutsch Will the 9V iPower work with this item? It says the original power supply outputs 9v/2.000mA but that the unit itself draws 300 - 1.500mA so I am a bit unsure. It would make sense that it could work just fine. Originally Posted by kenman345 In general, the voltage needs to match (i.e. 9v means 9v), but the power supply needs to provide "at least" the required amperage.