We've got you covered. It's a fact of life, sometimes things break or wear out. When they do, our commitment to you is to have the part you need on hand and ready to fix your problem with the least amount hassle and inconvenience. Toilet & Urinal Parts Commercial Toilet & Urinal Parts Toilet Flush Valves & Flappers Toilet Tank to Bowl Parts Toilet Trip Levers & Flush Buttons View All Toilet & Urinal Parts Bath Shower Faucet Parts Electronics, Metering & Controls Faucet Cartridges, Valves & Filters Faucet Handles and Buttons Faucet Seals, Nuts & Adapters View All Faucet Parts Need help finding a part? Contact Customer Service at 800-488-8049. Flapper Assembly for Cadet 3 Toilet Flapper Assembly for Cadet 3 FloWise Toilet Flapper and Chain with Float Series 540 A 3 in. Colony Flush Valve Assembly Flapper Assembly for Colony Fit Right ToiletSilicone Toilet Tank Flapper Kit Champion Universal Toilet Tank Flapper

Sign In or use your Manual 1.0 GPF Flush Valve for 0.75 in. Top Spud Urinal in Polished Chrome Selectronic FloWise Toilet Flushometer Flush Valve in Polished Chrome Manual FloWise 0.5 GPF Exposed Flushometer for 3/4 in. Manual 1.28 GPF FloWise Flush Valve for 1.5 in. Top Spud Toilet in Polished Chrome Champion 4 Flush Valve Seal Kit Champion 4 One Piece Trip Lever in Polished Chrome Flush Valve Assembly with 3 in. Champion 4 Tank Lever in Polished Chrome Tank-to-Bowl Coupling Kit for Cadet 3 Toilet Trip Lever Left Hand for 4086 Tank in Polished Chrome Trip Tank Lever Assembly for Antiquity 1-Piece Toilet, Polished Chrome Manual 0.5 GPF 11.5 in. Rough-In Urinal Flush Valve in Polished Chrome Manual 1.28 GPF 11.5 in. Rough-In Toilet Flush Valve in Polished Chrome Plebe Tank Lever in Chrome Push Button Actuator, Polished Chrome 2.25 in. x 1.25 in. Cadet Valve Rebuild Kit You are hereHome:Parts:Flappers & Seals:American Standard

The flappers below are designed to fit American Standard® Toilets. 5103 American Standard® Seat Disc Fits all American Standard® Actuator Flush Valves Tapered to fit all conventional flush valvesVacuum Cleaner Bury St Edmunds Includes 5" brass lower lift wireMoving Company Zugclick any toilet below to find parts schematics for that modelMiele Art Vacuum Cleaner Reviews Antiquity - 2262, 2264 & 2464 Antiquity Cadet 3 - 2907 Baby Devoro - 2162 Baby Devoro - 2315.012 Baby Devoro - 2315.228 Cadet - 2099 & 2100 Cadet - 2108, 2109, 2120, 2122 & 2124 New Cadet - 2312 & 2812 (3.5 gpf) Cadet PRO - 2312 & 2812 (1.28 gpf) Cadet - 2313 & 2813 Cadet - 2334 & 2816 Cadet - 2798, 2898 & 2998

Cadet II - 2164, 2174 & 2216 Cadet 3 - 2383, 2384 & 2386 Champion4 - 2002, 2018, 2023 Champion4 Right Height - 2034 Colony - 2188 & 2199 Colony - 2388, 2399, 2359 Compact El Space Saver - 2149 Doral Champion4 - 2367, 2368, 2369 Doral Classic Champion4 - 2058, 2074, 2076 Flow Wise - 2073 Glenwall - 2093, 2094 Hamilton - 2092, 2096 Lexington - 2007 &: 2006 Luxor 2003 & 2002 - with Vent-Away Luxor 2003 & 2002 - NON Vent-Away Oakmont Champion4 - 2625, 2627, 2738 Plebe - 2131 & 2138 Ravenna - 2648, 2642, 2646 Reminiscence - 2011 & 2311 Repertoire - 2483, 2266 Roma 2009 - with Vent-Away Roma 2009 - NON Vent-Away Skyline Champion4 - 2067, 2219, 2221 Standard Collection - 2474 Townsend Champion4 - 2733, 2735 Town Square - 2787, 2797 Yorkville - 2128, 2130, 2134 ALL American Standard Toilet Parts Toilet Model Identification Help Q. "Are all American Standard® parts 'standard' and are ALL their products and parts made in America?"

A. A number of their products are made overseas (as is the case with many other plumbing manufacturers as well). Please do not assume that all products made by American Standard (Am. Stan.) are made in the U.S. The word "standard" and "American Standard®" are NOT identical. Most of their faucet parts will only fit their brand (as is the case with their competitors as well). Many of their toilet parts will only fit their brand of toilet. Not all of American Standard® parts are universal ("standard"). We get this question frequently, and it is probably because some people assume that since they have the word "standard" as part of their name that they must be using parts that are "standard"; as in universally fitting. Just as car bumpers don't fit on all brands of cars, parts for "standard" toilets and faucets will generally not fit on other brands. Generally you must buy parts specifically made for (designed to fit) your specific brand of toilet/faucets, etc. - Pamela Gilbert, Toledo, Ohio 43614-1144

- John McIntyre, Casselberry, Florida 32707-5910 - Dale Bridson, Wolcott, New York 14590-1148 Please note that every customer testimonial shown on our pages has given us written permission to quote them. Our customer's privacy is very important to us, and we will never give, share or sell contact information or e-mail addresses to anyone!Return to Toilet Question List The most likely problem is that water is leaking around the flapper in the bottom ofWhen the water in the tank drops to a certain level, the intake valve thinks "Duh... somebody musta flushed, so I better turn on and fill da tank!" The valve turns on, but since the water level has only dropped a few inches at most, it only stays on for a few seconds, till the level is back up to normal. Before you replace the flapper, lift it up and run your finger around the flapper seat. Are there any bits of stuff stuck to the seat? If so, dislodge them and see if that solvedIf your hands became blackened from handling the seat or the flapper, then

you have found your answer... the flapper is dissolving and must be replaced. Chlorine or acids in the water cause rubber flappers toIn-the-tank automatic toilet cleaners generally contain so much chlorine that they will destroy the flapper (and all other seals and gaskets), making it twist and distort.  This causes a poor seal leading to intermittent and eventually constant leakage. The flapper is a little rubber workhorse., and replacement of a flapper is one ofBut, in deference to Murphy's Law, exercise some caution in removing the old flapper and installing the new one. If you break any plastic parts, you may be in for a more extensive repair than you bargained for!! The skinny of flapper repair is to simply pull the flapper off of the mounting 'ears', or unscrew or unsnap itPut the replacement back in the same place. The chain of the new flapper should connect in the same place as the old one. Of course, life isn't always that simple.

There are a few types of flappers, and each one requires a slightly different installation It is a good idea to turn the water off to the toilet before replacing the flapper, though you can replace some styles in under a minute! Just one less distraction from doing the best job you can. This is by far the most common type of flapper, available from many manufacturers in various styles and appearances. made entirely out of rubber, and some, such as the Bulls Eye® flapper from Fluidmaster® , use a solid plastic framework with an integral rubber seal. Both types of flappers clip onto little ears at the base of the overflow pipe. When you attach the flapper chain to the flush arm, it should be just slightly loose, so the flapper closes completely. If the chain is TOO loose, the flapper will not be lifted high enough to "float", and will not stay open without you holding down One peculiarity with flappers is that on some toilets, one style of flapper might work

while another one will not. So if you replace the flapper, adjust it correctly, clean the seat, and it still doesn't seal... don't cry, just purchase another brand or style of flapper and try again! a ball-shaped rubber flapper that moves vertically when flushed, pulled by a threaded lift wire attached to the trip arm. replace, unscrew the ball from the lift wire and replace with a new one. flappers discussed here, this one can go out of adjustment. There is a guide arm through which the lift wire travels, and it must be directly centered over the flapper seat or the This is an older style American Standard flapper... a circular disk about 3 inches across. to a fairly large plastic assembly, hinged at the base of the overflow tube. it is a small cylindrical reservoir or cup which is filled with water. When the toilet in flushed, the entire framework tips back, lifting the attached flapper disk. acts as a counterbalance to the flapper disk, and holds the flapper open.

begins to empty itself through small holes in its base. Once it is sufficiently empty, the plastic framework falls back to its closed position, firmly seating the flapper disk inby this time, the toilet tank has drained and is ready to refill. The seat disk flapper comes in two styles, threadedThe biggest problem working with either of these is that you don't have much room in the toilet to work. Since you risk of breaking the entire enchilada if you try to remove the assembly from the tank, it's usually best to do the repair in the tank, and be careful! Use a flashlight, with a small inspection mirror if necessary, to see how the old diskIf you can see a small threaded bolt holding the disk on, grab the top of the bolt with a pair of small pliers. Spin the disk off counterclockwise. top, counterclockwise LOOKS clockwise. Then you can screw on the new disk. The snap-on type can be a little tricky if the flapper has hardened from years of