Q. I'm a city person (although my town is rather small as cities go), and have been amused to listen to the janitor at work telling me about her goldfish all summer. It seems that farmers here have goldfish in their stock tanks to keep the algae down and keep the tanks clean. With the water heaters they have in the tanks for the winter the fish do all right without any extra care. I don't know how the fish feel about the cattle and other animals drinking the water they are living in. Nevertheless she's been telling me about the baby goldfish that have appeared, so evidently the fish are happy. Obviously, the fish will be fine in such a tank. But I had never before heard of this practice and wanted to add to the discussion. A. Sue, your story is not really hard to believe. In fact, it shows just how hardy goldfish really are under the "right" conditions.Why do aquarists seem to have so many problems keeping goldfish alive and thriving in small (20 gallon) tanks? Why do pondkeepers have substantially fewer problems with goldfish, but more significant problems with koi?

The riddle is answered by your story. These cattle troughs routinely hold between 150 and 300 gallons of water. Several goldfish are placed in them, and they are never fed. Instead, the goldfish live off of algae growing on the trough walls and insects that fall into the water. They also cannibalize each other and eat their own eggs. Underfed and under-populated, they produce little ammonia. What ammonia they do produce is detoxified easily by nitrifying bacteria that populate the tank walls. These cattle troughs reach a comfortable and sustainable biological equilibrium. So, the secret of success here is fish load control and feeding management. A low fish mass-to-water volume ratio and low levels of feeding produce healthy and stable fish populations in these cattle troughs. Six goldfish in 300 gallons is equivalent to one goldfish in a 55-gallon aquarium. Now, who do you know who stocks a goldfish tank like that? Over the years I've received numerous letters from readers taking me to task for unrealistic recommendations for stocking goldfish tanks.

In most cases these people simply don't understand that goldfish are massive fish for their length, that they need water high in dissolved oxygen, and that they produce significant amounts of waste, making modest stocking densities essential if good water quality is going to be maintained in an aquarium. I typically suggest that a pair of goldfish in a 30-gallon tank is already a little crowded, and that a 55-gallon tank would be even better. Not many goldfish keepers are willing to accept such a recommendation. Most hobbyists also overfeed their fish, adding to the bioload in the tank. The filtration system cannot cope with this, and the water quality deteriorates to the point where the fish are under chronic physical stress and become sick. there are primarily two basic means used in constructing an outdoor pond - flexible EPDM or PVC liners or rigid preformed shells. The flexible liner gives you greater design creativity, while the rigid shell is sturdier. This is your most important decision.

There are three key factors to consider - sunlight (you want some sun and some shade), leaf-shedding or pollen-emitting trees (you want as few as possible) and drainage or runoff (you want to stay away from low-lying areas). Homes For Sale By Owner Prophetstown IlUsing these guidelines, location selection becomes a decision based on your property and what you are lookingWobbly Toilet Seat With Hidden Fixings to achieve - visually and aurally. Second Hand Furniture Topeka KansasBecause, besides being wonderful to look at, the addition of a stream, waterfall or fountainhead gives the added dimension of sound. and plan carefully - repositioning a pond is a major undertaking! FLEXIBLE LINER POND CONSTRUCTION

First thing is to determine the size and shape of your pond. Try drawing pleasing shapes on paper before beginning. This will give you a bird's eye view and will help giving you a direction. Rectangular shapes are formal, free-flowing are more casual and natural. When designing your shape, allow room for a plant shelf 10-12" wide, 8-10" below water level. Allow enough length and width to accommodate sloped sides. The sides should be sloped inward up to approximately 65-70� (50-55� with sandy soil). Incorporate an edge deep and wide enough to accommodate edging material. Depth is determined by your location and use. to have fish and you live in an area where there is winter freezing, you should have a portion of the pond at least 24-30" deep, otherwise an average depth of 18" is enough. a long garden hose, string or rope and layout the shape on the ground. Bigger is better because a pond seems to diminish in size when viewed from eye level. When you are satisfied with

the location, size and shape, you are ready to begin the actual construction. Take your time, make this a fun, family project. Just follow these easy steps: PATIO & TUB POND CONSTRUCTION Step #1 After deciding on the placement of the pond, next is the shape. By laying out a garden hose or a rope, you can play with the shape until it’s exactly Step #2 Dig the outer edge of the pond before removing your perimeter marker. that you don’t lose the shape. Step #3 Continue to excavate theHere I’m removing the sod for the flat rock border. Step #4 It’s important to note that I’m leveling just the front part of the pond, because we’re doing a flat rock border. By using a large 2x4 and a spirit level, I can get the pond level to within an inch or two, which is close enough at this point. Step #5 We are going to put a shelf on the back wall of the pond. This shelf is for marginal plants as well as boulders.

Here I’m making sure that the shelf is approximately ten inches deep and ten inches wide. Step #6 Now it’s time to prepare the excavated hole for the pond liner. Here I’m using two to four inches of sand on the bottom and old burlap sacks on the sides. Step #7 Now put your pond liner in. Be sure that there is plenty of overlap all the way around. Because of this pond’s unique shape, it will be necessary toas I’m doing here. Step #8 Because of the free form shape, there will be some excess liner. Some of this excess can be cut (stay at lest twelve inches away from the edge of the pond) and used inside the pond as a buffer between the boulders and the pond liner. Step #9 Put the pump and the waterfall plumbing into place as you begin to cover the inside of the pond with rock. Use some scrap pieces of liner underneathCovering the inside of the pond with rocks is and Step #10 After all of the rock is

carefully placed inside the pond, you may begin filling the pond Step #11 Once the pond is full of water, you can trim back the excess liner being sure to stay at least six to eight inches back from the edge of the water. Step #12 If you choose to do a flat rock border, this is the most important step. show you the exact level. When the water is cresting the entire area that you want level, you know it’s perfect. NOTE: To do a flat rock border, you will need some of these elements. A shovel for carrying the mortar, a garden hoe for mixing, a hand trowel for finishing work, pre-mix mortar, and the rock of your choice. Step #13 Drain the pond down six inches or so to keep the mortar out of the water. a bed of mortar about one inch thick. Note: Always wear gloves when working with cement type product. Step #14 When placing the first rock in the bed of mortar be sure that it has two to three inches of

Step #15 After placing the second rock you can backfill any gaps with the mortar. with a wet glove until you get a smooth finish. front of the rocks are lined up. Step #16 Let the mortar set up for about an hour and then, using a trowel, make a nice smooth cutThis gives the border a finished look. Step #17 No pond is complete withoutThis includes water plants as well as plantingsLandscaping around the water feature might best be described as putting the icing on the cake. The final result of your work is a beautiful pond that will bring you and your family years ofThe pond will be the focal point of the entireit will never go unnoticed. Step #1 Before evacuating the hole, set the pond on the proposed site, turn the pond upside-down and mark the outer edge using ground marking paint or flour. Step #2 Begin evacuation. slightly wider and deeper than the pond requires, If theIf the preformed pond has a shelf, dig

Step #3 Place the pond back in the partially excavated hole and mark around the deeper level. Step #4 Finish the excavation . put one to two inches of clean sand on the bottom of the hole and on the shelves. This will protect the liner shell from rocks or any other hard objects in the soil. Step #5 Level the excavation area as much as possible before placing the pond in. It’s best to use a spirit level and a straight 2x4 board. Step #6 Fill the pond slowly,As the pond is filling with water, backfill around the pond with a sandy loam or plain sand it is important to pack the backfill material firmly to avoid any Step #7 Now the pond is full andHide the edges using a flat stone or plantings that will overhang, concealing the edge of the pond. pump, filter, plants and fish. Step #1 By using a retaining wall behind waterfalls, there’s no need to worry about settling or Step #2 Now carve steps into the

Dig the entire stream down six to ten inches. the first drop at the top is a small holding pool. where everything starts, is to ensure that the water doesn’t shoot down the falls straight out of the pipe. Step #3 Put the liner in place toMake sure there’s plenty of liner overhangingMake sure the waterfall liner overlaps (shingle effect) down over the pond liner. This is to make sure, that if it ever leaks, the water still ends up in the pond. Step #4 The cement work is done right on top of the liner. You can use pre-mixed mortar, or if you would like to mix your own… (3 parts sand / 1 part cement). Step #5 Thin slate is good to useThe slate is placed onto a thin bed of mortar, Then leveled both lengthwise and widthwise. Step #6 Because the slate is laid in mortar, the water will be forced over the top. mortaring small stones of each side of the slate, the water will be forced down the middle of the rock.