Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top Whenever I go to take a shower, I have to turn the handle to the absolute hottest setting just to avoid freezing. I know the hot water works in my house, so that's not the issue. It just seems like I should be able to make the water hotter if I could just turn the handle more. Is there a way to accomplish this easily? Many faucets have an adjustable range. In the last one I installed there was plastic ring with v-grooves around the outside of it: to adjust the range you positioned two stops that hooked into the v-grooves. Recommend the TIA* approach to see what you can see - it may be very straightforward. Just don't drop the screws down the drain! In our new house, the shower controls in the kids bathrooms are adjustable so you can set the temperature to prevent scalding. Even if the kids push the control all the way to HOT, the water will only be comfortably warm.

I'm not sure about all controls, but on ours you pop the face off the control. Inside there are 2 (I think) geared rings that you can position to set the maximum temperature. Doityourself has a good article called "How to Repair a Shower Faucet: Water Doesn't Get Hot" that covers how to troubleshoot and repair a cartridge-type shower faucet, which I suspect is your problem. How old is your hot water heater? I ask because I ran into the same issue. I'd turn my shower on full hot, no cold water at all and I'd still only get warm - semi-hot water when realistically I should have been scalded. Turns out my hot water heater was set too low (was set on the "A" setting out of "A, B and C" with "C" being the hottest). I set it to "C" and that solved the issue for a while. It started doing it again, I called around and found out that as a hot water heater gets older it loses it's heating capability. My water heater was about 12 years old and wasn't heating efficiently. Got a new water heater and now I get steaming hot water again.

Thank you for your interest in this question. Because it has attracted low-quality or spam answers that had to be removed, posting an answer now requires 10 reputation on this site (the association bonus does not count).Diy Composting Toilet Rv Would you like to answer one of these unanswered questions instead?Vintage Lyon Shaw Patio Furniture Not the answer you're looking for? Weight Loss Center In Carrollton GaBrowse other questions tagged bathroom shower temperature or ask your own question. < 1 2 3 > 16,275 posts, read 44,896,608 times 1 posts, read 23,639 times all it needed was a screw driver and 15 min. 7,475 posts, read 15,884,426 times 2 posts, read 47,546 times

1 posts, read 21,841 times 26,349 posts, read 68,900,480 times Originally Posted by plumberNOT Originally Posted by Donn2390 Doesn't explain why the original poster gets hot water elsewhere in the house. 19,446 posts, read 36,978,478 times I've had nothing but trouble with single handle anti-scald valves in older neighborhoods... they require some what equal flow on both the cold and the hot and the ones I've seen will have problems with the slightest sediment build-up... Old fashioned two handle washer type fixtures from the 1950's in the same building have zero problem... only the units that were up-graded. I'm convinced that we create many of our own problems when going hi-tech. Originally Posted by Ultrarunner Is there a reasonably "easy" way for a homeowner DIYer to clean out the sediment without spraying or spilling water all behind the drywall and stuff? This may be my problem by process of elimination. I can't think of anything else.

A plumber already replaced the shower Delta cartridge and we are getting the same problem.A small gap is normal and necessary to allow proper movement of the handle without damaging the escutcheon below it. An excessive gap results from improper height adjustment at the time of installation. Loosen the nut under the counter/sink. Then screw the escutcheon UP just enough to make up the gap. Then re-tighten the nut. This lowers the valve and reduces the gap Was this answer helpful? In most cases, the finish is safe if you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use and make sure the drain cleaner isn’t left on the finish for longer than 30 minutes. Remove the aerator, soak it in vinegar overnight, then flush with water. For stubborn deposits, rub with a toothbrush. Always blot dry any water from the faucet surface. Allowing water to evaporate on the surface can lead to build up of mineral deposits. Cleaning with a damp non-abrasive sponge and buffing it dry with a clean soft cloth should help keep your product looking beautiful.

To remove water spots, use warm water and a soft, damp cloth. Hard water stains may be removed using a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water.  Make certain that you rinse the surface thoroughly with water afterward. If additional cleaning is required, all of our finishes may be cleaned with the following household cleaners: Formula 409® Antibacterial All Purpose Cleaner, Fantastik® All Purpose Cleaner, or Windex Original Glass Cleaner, when used according to the manufacturers' instructions for use. Avoid using the following which can damage your finish: Avoid industrial cleaners and abrasive cleaners, such as those used for toilet bowls, green Scotch-Brite heavy duty scrub sponges, Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner and Lysol Basin Tub, Soft Scrub, and Tile Cleaner. Avoid products that state on the label that they remove tarnish and rust and those containing hydrofluoric, hydrochloric and/or phosphoric acids and caustic agents. Avoid harsh abrasives or polishes.

Always blot dry any water from faucet surface. Make certain that you rinse thoroughly with water afterward. If additional cleaning is required, all of our finishes may be cleaned with the following household cleaners: Formula 409® Antibacterial All Purpose Cleaner, Fantastik® All Purpose Cleaner, or Windex® Original Glass Cleaner, when used according to the manufacturers' instructions for use. Avoid products that state on the label that they remove tarnish and rust, and those containing hydrofluoric, hydrochloric and/or phosphoric acids and caustic agents. Avoid harsh abrasives or polishes Some common tools include: Silicone sealant - Plumber's Putty is not generally recommended Screwdriver (Phillips and slotted) Please refer to the Maintenance & Installation Sheet supplied with the faucet to make sure you have all the necessary tools. If you need a Maintenance & Installation Sheet for your faucet, visit the Online Catalog and search for your faucet.

When your faucet appears, select the Maintenance & Installation option to view the installation information. Call us at 1-800-345-DELTA (3358), Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. CST or Click here to send a message directly to Customer Service. Soaking your aerator in white vinegar overnight should help remove any mineral deposits and normal build up. Any extra-stubborn deposits can be broken free with a tooth brush. Once complete, simply rinse the aerator off with water. Delta Faucet Company recommends you leave the existing fitting on the PEX supply tubing and not shorten the tubing. If you determine the PEX supply tubing for this faucet is too long and must be shorter to create an acceptable installation, be sure to read the instructions and plan ahead. When cutting the supply tubing, the installer accepts the responsibility to do so in a way that allows a leak-free joint to be created.  Delta is not responsible for tubing that is cut too short or cut in a way that will not allow for a leak-free joint.

For custom fit installations, you must use RP50952 sleeves supplied with model and nuts included on supply lines. Tube cut must be straight. See plastic sleeve installation instructions found on RP50952. NOTICE: DO NOT use a metal sleeve, RP51243 gasket (supplied with faucet) or ferrule in the place of the plastic sleeve supplied--it may not create a leak-free joint. Do not use pipe dope or other sealants on water line connections. Instructions: Watch this how-to video for information on how to cut your PEX supply lines to size. 1. Identify desired length of tube (1). Leave 1" - 2" of extra length to allow for easier installation, and cut tube. Ensure cut is straight and burr free. 2. Slide nut (2) and plastic sleeve (3) onto cut tube. Ensure sleeve is oriented as shown. 3. Insert tube into outlet fitting (4). Tube should touch bottom of hole inside fitting. 4. Slide plastic sleeve down tube until it engages top of fitting. NOTICE: Failure to use plastic sleeve in the correct orientation will result in disconnection and possible water damage.