About the Chevy Venture The Chevy Venture was one of the most popular vans from 1997 to 2005. An efficient and roomy vehicle that is great for families. To keep your van in top shape, however, will require some replacement parts from time to time. At GMPartsOnline.net we offer virtually any Chevy Venture part you might need. We do not offer cheap aftermarket copies of OEM parts, all parts are factory parts. You won’t find any cheap, imitation parts here. Mirrors – When you crack a side mirror, driving can become dangerous. You need to replace a mirror with the same powered folding mirror that your Venture came with and we have the mirror you need. Lights – Whether it is a headlight or a taillight that you need, we have the proper part. Brake Pads – You want to make sure your car can stop on a dime and has the proper maintenance parts. Brake pads need to be replaced from time to time and we have the pad you need. Whether you know exactly what you need or if you are not quite sure of the part you need, call us at 1-866-423-9926.

Our phone staff has over 250 years of combined GM parts experience. We can point you in the right direction right away and get you back on the road quickly. Find your vehicle below:Air Filter Battery ReplacementCCA and Reserve CapacityBatteries 101Electric car maintenanceJump start a car batteryBodyworkfix scratchesCooling SystemDisc Brake PadsEngine gasketsFuel FilterFuel pumpHeadlights, bulbs and fusesHow to upgrade your headlightsWhich bulb is right for youReplace headlights, bulbs and fusesHosesOil changeSpark plugsStarterThermostatsTiresBelt Drive SystemWater pumpWinter Driving TipsWinter Driving 101Top Jeep accessoriesUnderstanding Traction ControlWiper bladesNAPA ExcellenceService & RepairCareersCAA HomeNAPA Know HowDisc Brake PadsDisc Brake Pads Replacement These instructions will help you change the disc pads on most popular vehicles. Be sure to READ them completely before you begin. Note: Many newer vehicles are equipped with ABS (Anti-Lock Brake Systems), a computer-controlled system that requires additional mechanical and electrical parts to prevent the wheels from locking up during braking.

It may be necessary to temporarily disconnect or remove some of the ABS parts to replace brake pads. Consult an appropriate manual to be sure that all brake parts have been properly reinstalled and reconnected. To replace your disc brakes you’ll need: READ these instructions completely before you begin. In most cases you'll need to remove the calipers to change the brake pads. If you have any questions about repair and maintenance, contact your local NAPA Auto Parts store. Find the nearest NAPA Auto Parts location.This page is all about wiring relays to drive your headlights so they are brighter and/or you can use higher output bulbs (if desired) without the risk of overloading your existing headlight wiring. If you have no idea why you might even want to do that, let alone how to do it, read on. If you don't even know what a relay is - go read my All About Relays page before going any further. I made this modification years ago on one of my cars after installing higher

output headlights - I needed to solve the "flickering headlights" problem that resulted when I used my high beams. The new lights drew so much more power that the existing circuit breaker in the headlight switch was being overloaded. Ecological Light Bulbs And Fixtures Llc was both annoying and downright unsafe - so I fixed it with this change. Butterfly Knife Cs Go Style found out about the benefits for just getting brighter headlights courtesy of anBuy Second Hand Laptop In Allahabad article written by the Southern California GS chapter of one of the various Buick clubs I know of and get information from. (I can't find the name of the club, but I do have a photocopy of the article itself.

If someone cares to remind me who I ought to be giving credit to for this, please remind me so I can update this page.) The voltage drop information and encouragement for me to create an easy to read wiring diagram comes from theirThere was lots of good info in there, but the hand-drawn wiring diagram was less than readable - even for someone like me who actually understands howSo, I decided to put this page up to host a better wiring diagram and explain it in my own way along with details for the high outputSince I'd done this myself years before I'd ever read their article, and I'm giving them credit for some of the extra details, I don't feel like I'm ripping off their idea. Why would you care about doing this? For one (or both) of two basic reasons. The first is that you have installed high output headlights (off-road units,and you're having problems with your headlights "flickering" on and off again while you drive. The second reason is to simply improve the brightness of

This is because the factory wiring for the headlights has lots of long "just big enough" wires, and after many years of service, this leads to extra resistance in the wiring and at each connection. sucks up electrical energy that could be used to produce light at the headlights, so your lights are dimmer than they could be. To put this into perspective, a 10% drop in voltage between the battery and the headlight is not uncommon - and that can cause up to a 30% drop in light output! difference between being able to see to stop in time and having an accident - so this is a very useful safety and drivability modification. The total cost is less than $50 and can be done in an afternoon by anyone who is even vaguely familiar with how to do simple wiring work. $50 to get up to 30% more light from your headlights is very much worth it. So read on and learn how to do this. The standard set of safety disclaimers apply - this is for your information

only and none of this should be attempted unless you are sure you know whatThis is not guaranteed to be 100% correct and you should use common sense when attempting any repairs or modifications to your vehicle. not my fault if you fry yourself, anyone else, or your car. I did not tell you that you should do this - only that you could do this. It's up to you to determine if and how this information applies to your car. On the subject of application information, this entire page is focused on vehicles that use a traditional "positive switched" headlight system like mostThis is where power goes from the + battery terminal to the switch, then to the headlights, then to ground and back to the battery. import cars, particularly Toyota's from the early to mid 1980's use a really weird "negative switched" system that runs power direct to the headlights and puts the switch after the headlights in the wiring diagram. the same relay trick in those systems, but several key wires are inverted, and

you need to be really careful about what you do because most people have trouble thinking about the system working "backwards". As a side note, these "reversed" systems are prone to strange behavior when a headlight burns out - things like having all of the headlights burn out at the same time are not uncommon with these systems. That said, you may want to think about doing the extra work to use the relay along with some extra wiring to invert the system so it works "correctly". It's more work, but it can be done. I'd do it if it were my car, but I do things that most folks never notice or care about, so take that recommendation with a (not so) small grain of salt. Lastly, the physics purists who want to pester me about actual electron flow from negative to positive can save it. I know about this, but it's confusing to most people and not relevant to the discussion here. This entire page is written from the perspective of the traditional positive-to-negative power flow in an

If you know what that means, now you know. gibberish to you, don't worry about it - it was just the elitist purists trying This one is pretty easy to conceptualize if you understand how a relay works - and if can't then you should go read my All About Relays page so you can. You splice two 20A relays into the existing wiring harness right out near the headlights so one relay controls the low beams and one controls the high beams. Use the existing high and low beam wires coming from the firewall to trigger the relay, run a new high power feed (with a fuse!) direct from the battery, and hookup the existing high and low beam wires from the headlights to the "normally open" contact on the relays. The hardest part of all this is typically finding the right wires in the existing wiring harness and finding a place to mount the relays - the actual wiring is pretty easy. SPST/normally open relay will do, though most automotive relays are of the SPDT

variety - just don't hook anything up to the "normally closed" contact on the relay (pretend it's not there) and you'll be fine. Note that if you pick some really monster sized off-road headlights that draw more power than the ones that you can plausibly use "on the street", you must use higher amperage relays than what is mentioned here. You must also use the appropriate sized power wires and you may very well end up replacing all of the headlight wiring from the relays out to the headlights themselves - don't forget to upgrade to a larger headlight ground if you do this! Wire Capacity Chart for more details. Now, for the rest of humanity that has no clue what I just said, here's a step-by-step list of what you need to do. You should read the entire list and understand it before you start this project. If you are knowledgeable in such things, you should be sure to solder all of your connections in addition toThis helps ensure that you will have a more secure and lower

resistance connection that will not degrade over time. The wiring diagram below shows what you need to end up wiring to make this work, so if you know how to read a wiring diagram and feel like "skipping ahead", just go click on the thumbnail for the wiring diagram and check it out in full size, full color glory. It's shown for a four headlight system - if you have a two headlight system on your car, pretend the two inner "high beam only" headlights aren't there and you'll be fine. The wire colors shown here represent a typical GM vehicle (the green and tan wires, along with some of the black wires) as well as the proper/correct/desired wire colors to use on any new wiring you do (the red and some of the black wires). Also, this is shown as a typical "Bosch style" automotive relay with the connections numbered as such. relay is not numbered like this, then just identify the wires by function and go Note that in the original version of this diagram, I had the labels for the

right side headlights reversed - it has since been corrected thanks to a sharp-eyed reader who pointed out the mistake to me. The wiring diagram was always correct, but the headlight labels may have been a tad confusing to some. Apologies for the mistake. See the bottom section of my All About Relays page to get some ideas for where to buy parts from. Whatever you do, just be sure to get relays that have a connector and wires with them along with a way to mount them. For reasons I am unable to fathom, some people produce and sell relay kits that have no way to mount the relay. breaker can be obtained from your local parts store - they sell units that mount to any flat piece of metal and have simple screw-on terminals for the wires. think the one I used was an Echlin CB6339 based on what I looked up on NAPA'sThe wire, tape/heat shrink, crimp on connectors, and screws to mount things can all be obtained locally at any decent auto parts store.