With every custom wheel you buy at Les Schwab, you get a one-year wheel warranty with a free replacement program, free rebalancing and free safety inspections. We will also check to make sure your wheel lug nuts stay at the proper tightness (torquing) your vehicle manufacturer recommends. Free replacement means your wheel will be replaced absolutely free should there be any problem with workmanship or material/manufacturer defects. And, should you detect vibration at any time, you can come into any store for our specialists to rebalance and check your lug nut tightness (torque) to help ensure smooth handling of your car or pickup. to view/download a PDF version of our Custom Wheel Warranty.Wheel Lock Keys, Lug Nut Keys & Removers Click on the image below that most closely matches your lug nut/wheel lock.Click Here Can't get your Wheels Off? Need help getting a replacement wheel lock key? If you�re like most of us, you probably have no idea where your lug nut key is and now you need it.

Don't panic, as we offer most common wheel lock keys and lug nut removers right here. Need a Gorilla wheel lock key or maybe even a lug nut key for your mystery lug nuts? Here at Brandsport, we carry the wheel bolt key, lug nut remover or wheel lock key you need and we�ve likely got the lug nut key you need to get the wheel locks and lug nuts off your wheels easily and effectively. , we even carry extra Wheel Lock Keys and lug nut removers to keep in your garage, just in case your wheel lock key goes missing or gets damaged. Our lug nut removers will allow you to remove those stubborn lug nuts or wheel locks with ease so you can get your wheels off, get done what you need to get done, and get moving! Shop our wide selection today to find exactly which wheel lock key you need for your vehicle. Lug Nut Key Kits Lug Nut Key Storage Bag When you purchased your lug nuts and wheel locks, you most likely put the key in a place where you wouldn’t forget it if you needed it.

Of course, like most people, when you need something you probably forgot where you put it. So what do you do when you need to remove your lug nuts and wheel locks? You come to Brandsport. At Brandsport, we offer common lug nut removers to help you get the lug nut off of your wheels when you need to. The last thing you want to be doing is searching for lug nut keys when you need to get on with your day. Prevent the problem with our wheel lock keys.Whether you need a lug nut key that is 5-spline, 7-spline, 8-point, 9-point, 10-point or 12-spline, we have the lug nut keys for you. We also have full sets for mechanics and gator grips. The mechanics sets we carry have 16 pieces and are available with a case and power wrench. For whatever type of vehicle you drive and lug nuts/wheel lock keys you need, Brandsport is here to assist you. If you need that extra key just in case you lose the one you knew you might need, we can help there as well.At Brandsport, we take pride in our products and helping customers like you.

In business since 1998, we’re car people and want your repeat business. Regular Fit T-Shirt Ne DemekWe offer free shipping on orders over $200 and you pay no sales tax when you order from us. Motorhome For Sale PeiIf you have any questions about which wheel lock keys you might need, we’re here to answer them. Dogo Argentino Puppies For Sale In MissouriCheck our FAQ section or give us a call. Order your wheel lock keys, lug nut keys and lug nut removers from Brandsport today. Dorman - Autograde (Clamshell). Wheel Lock Type: Bulge Seat Acorn Lock. Overall Length (In): 1.39. Dorman - Autograde (Carded). Overall Length (In): 1.375. Nut and Lock Set - BLACK - (16 nuts/4 locks/1 key). Quantity per package: 20. Overall Length (In): 1.392.

Wheel Lock Type: Female Spline. Base or LE modelOverall Length (In): 1.394. Quantity per package: 20 Set.Overall Length (In): 1.407. Nut and Lock Set - (16 nuts/4 locks/1 key). benefits Size & Specs Customer Reviews Warranty All-Season TractionCircumferential Center Groove provides outstanding water evacuation.Resistance to WearReinforced shoulder blocks provide stability during cornering and generate more even wear.Yokohama PARADA Spec-X®Yokohama tires are designed to perform better, keep you safer, and take you further. The PARADA Spec-X® is designed to handle exactly how you want it to. Its aggressive directional design increases acceleration and braking capabilities. Perpetual Contact Patch provides a smooth, quiet ride and improved performance across conditions.×Performance CarsPassenger CarsCrossovers/SUVsTrucksAll-Season RESISTANCE TO WEAR ALL-SEASON TRACTION HANDLING QUIETER RIDE size and specsselect your tire sizeTo view tire specs for your application select from one of the available sizes below.

Standard Limited WarrantyFor Passenger Tires, Light Truck Tires and Temporary SparesThis Limited Warranty / Adjustment Policy provides for tire replacement under specified conditions. Warranty EligibilityThis warranty applies to every Yokohama replacement passenger car, light truck and temporary spare tire bearing the Yokohama brand name and complete Department of Transportation serial identification number and operated during normal highway use (commercial applications excluded) in the United States. For Consumer Affairs Assistance: (800) 722-9888, 6 a.m. to 4p.m. Pacific Timeread full warrantyNot sure what you want? Find the models that are right for you using the Car Finder.It's gotten to the point where the neighbors know you're on the way home from half a block away because of all the "chirps" and "eeps" coming from your suspension. It's also potentially expensive if you have to replace all those worn parts. So why do these components begin to squeak? Suspension and steering joints wear out--and ultimately fail--when unlubricated metal-to-metal contact erodes bushings and bearing surfaces, much like 40-grit sandpaper on a wooden table.

So let's nip this degradation in the bud.Lube It, AlreadyYou're lucky. Chassis lubrication isn't expensive. You can buy a grease gun, some chassis grease and a couple of aerosol cans of lubricant for less than the price of one worn-out tie rod end. So there's no excuse. Your vehicle doesn't need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill.Most cars and light trucks today are manufactured with sealed "lubed for life" ball joints, tie rod ends and even U-joints. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy--when the factory-fill grease dries out, the joint wears out. Some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts that have proper grease fittings, allowing you to use a simple hand-pumped grease gun to inject precious lubrication at regular intervals. Virtually all aftermarket parts, even the direct replacements for the sealed factory units, have grease fittings to allow for lubrication. So what's the difference between the lubed-for-life parts and the greaseable after­market parts? Only the grease fitting.

In fact, you could even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting yourself, which is something I usually do on my own cars. Why do car manufacturers leave off this inexpensive fitting? They count every cent that goes into a new vehicle. And a few cents saved on 400,000 vehicles is eventually real money. More important, lubed-for-life parts allow automakers to tout their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance. That has become more important in these days of five- or 10-year warranties--even if the truth of the matter is that the unlubricateable parts will require eventual replacement, at your expense.Get UnderneathThe first thing you need to do before lubricating your chassis is to get some space underneath the vehicle so that you can work safely. My pickup has enough clearance that I can simply crawl underneath it, grease gun in hand, and get the job done. My Porsche needs to be on ramps or safety stands. Either way, make sure the parking brake is on and you place blocks behind the wheels.

Toss something thicker than your head, a block of wood or even a spare tire, under there too for insurance.Now that you're underneath the car, the procedure is simple--open up the dust boot on the fitting and clean off any grime with a rag so you don't force dirt inside. Pop the grease gun onto the fitting and pump the trigger until the rubber boot bleeds fresh grease around the edges. Your vehicle may have as many as a dozen fittings on the front suspension. If you own a 4x4 that sees a lot of mud, plan to spend time under the chassis with a grease gun regularly. You may find fittings on tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway-bar links and control-arm pivots, so hunt around and make sure to hit them all. There might be grease fittings on as many as three U-joints on the driveshaft (or shafts), depending on whether you have a front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive vehicle.Can't get any grease into the fitting? It's probably clogged with dried grease or dirt. Squeeze harder on the trigger of the grease gun.

Unscrew the fitting with a wrench and clean it out with a wire and solvent, or just install a new one from the auto parts store.It Still SqueaksThere are plenty of other things that can squeak on your car's suspension. Coil or leaf springs are supposed to have thin plastic insulators to keep metal-to-metal friction from creating noise, but age and the ravages of the road wear these little protectors out or simply cause them to fall off. A temporary solution is to soak that noisy area with spray-on lithium grease. A helper can bounce the car up and down while you crawl around underneath and track down that squeak. If the sound is from a rubber suspension bushing, silicone spray is better. It won't last as long, but the silicone won't degrade the rubber bushing.It's Hitchcock's CarGot a door, hood or trunk hinge that sounds like it's auditioning for the soundtrack of a horror movie? Hose it down with aerosol penetrating lube to rinse the corrosion out of the hinge, and follow with aerosol lithium grease.

Does your hood-release mechanism groan when you pull the interior latch? Does it take two people to open the hood--one to pull the release from inside the car while a second smacks the hood with the palm of his hand until it pops open? Time to lube the latch mechanism. Hood latches, whether they're remote or not, live in a dirty, wet and salty environment. Cycle the latch mechanism by hand a few times to break up any crunchy deposits. Then soak the mechanism with spray penetrant, or even carb cleaner, to hose away any dirt or dried-out, contaminated grease. Then spray it with aerosol lithium grease.Door-latch mechanisms can get sticky, too. I have a rule about what kind of lubricants to use: If the latch or hinge is outside the door gasket, it gets sprayed with lithium grease. But if it's inside, I prefer to use a dry-film spray, for two reasons. It won't attract or hold dirt or dust, and it won't stain your clothes if you happen to brush against it.A lot of late-model door-latch mechanisms use plastic bushings instead of metal-to-metal ones, and technically, these don't need to be lubricated.

But they do collect dirt and dust. Flush them with aerosol dry-film lube, and then use a rag to remove any excess slick stuff from the doorframe.Key tumblers should only be lubed with graphite, never with penetrating oil or anything that will hold dirt inside the mechanism.Baby, It's Cold OutsideCar doors can become difficult to open when temperatures fall below freezing. One reason may be condensation turning to ice inside the latch mechanism, making movement of the parts balky. Pull the door panel off and check to be sure the door drains are in fact draining; clean them if necessary. Clean the door-locking mechanism and spray it generously with lithium grease to keep moisture from building up inside it.Occasionally, you'll have a door that simply freezes shut when moisture glues the door seals to the painted frame. The only surefire way to open one of these babies is to park the vehicle someplace where the temperature is above freezing, and wait. Avoid a recurrence by wiping the seals generously with silicone to keep the ice from sticking.