How to Install a New Toilet Flange Curing a wobbly toilet—once and for all—with This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey In this video, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows how to fix that wobbly toilet by replacing the toilet flange 1. Use a small sledgehammer and cold chisel to separate the old cast-iron closet flange from the toilet's drainpipe, known as the closet bend. 2. Pry free the loosened closet flange with a flat bar. 3. Set the new compression flange over toilet's drainpipe, and then trace around it with a marker. 4. Use a hammer and cold chisel to chop out any tile that's preventing the flange from sitting flat without wobbling. 5. Press the rubber gasket onto the new closet flange; be sure the gasket's tapered edge faces down. 6. Set the brass ring on top of the rubber gasket, and tap it down with the hammer. 7. Use a ratchet wrench to tighten the four stainless-steel screws that secure the flange to the floor.

8. Insert two new closet bolts into the slots in the closet flange. 9. Press a new wax ring tight to the flange. 10. Set the toilet on top of the flange, making sure the two closet bolts pass through the holes in the toilet's base. 11. Onto each closet bolt insert a white plastic base, brass washer and hex nut. 12. Alternately tighten each nut with a ratchet wrench, being very careful not to over-tighten them. 13. Trim the closet screws down to size with a close-quarter hacksaw, then snap on the plastic covers. 14. Reconnect the water-supply line to the toilet. 15. Turn on the water by opening the toilet's shut-off valve. 16. Allow the toilet to fill, then flush the toilet and check for leaks. 17. Grab each side of the toilet and try wiggling it. If necessary, very carefully tighten each closet bolt a little more. Tools List for Replacing a Toilet Flange Cold chisel, used to crack free the old cast-iron closet flange Flat bar, for prying up the old closet flange

Black marker, used to trace around the new closet flange Ratchet wrench and assorted sockets, for tightening nutsAquarium Moving Services Toronto Close-quarter hacksaw, for trimming the closet bolts down to sizeSchnauzer Puppies For Sale Los Angeles 1. Compression flange, used to replace the old cast-iron flangeCovered Toilet Paper Holder Marine 2. Wax ring, for sealing the toilet to the flangeEdit ArticleHow to Replace a Toilet Flange A toilet flange connects the bottom of the toilet to the drainpipe in the floor of the bathroom. When a toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace your toilet flange. Place newspapers or towels on the ground adjacent to the bathroom. Turn off the water supply to the toilet.

Disconnect the water supply hose. Flush the toilet until it is empty. Loosen the two nuts that attach the toilet to the floor by hand or by using a wrench. Remove the toilet and set it on top of the newspapers or towels that you already placed on the floor. Clean the wax from the flange seal using a putty knife. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the floor with a screwdriver. Remove the flange and clean it off either in the sink or with a disinfecting wipe. Place a washcloth loosely in the outflow pipe to block unpleasant sewer gases from escaping. Measure the diameter of the sewer pipe using a tape measure so that you know the correct size for your new flange. Take the flange to a home improvement store, a hardware store or a plumbing supply store and purchase a flange of the same size and shape. Purchase a new wax ring at the store along with your new flange. Remove the washcloth from the outflow pipe. Secure the new flange to the floor using the new bolts.

Screw the new flange to the floor using a screwdriver and the new screws that came in the product package. Lift up the toilet and push the new wax ring into place on the bottom. Place the toilet on top of the flange, lining up the toilet with the new bolts. Replace the nuts that hold the toilet onto the flange. Reconnect the water supply hose. Turn on the water supply to the toilet. Flush to ensure that the toilet is working properly and there are no leaks. If you discover a leak beneath your toilet and remove the toilet, you may discover that the flange is undamaged. In this case, simply replace the wax ring and see if that corrects the leak. Instead of placing your toilet onto newspapers and towels to catch excess water, you may place your toilet in your bathtub or shower stall. Do not tighten the nuts that hold the toilet to the flange too tightly. You may cause the porcelain to crack. HydroSeat Toilet Flange Repair Wax Ring and Bolts for Toilet Bowl

Tank-to-Bowl Gasket for American Standard Cadet 3 Toilets No. 1 Toilet Bowl Wax Gasket (6-Pack) Flush Valve Replacement Seal HydroCap Sure Seat Wax Ring Cap Replacement Seal for Model #400A Fill Valves Other questions almost answer this question. What is the purpose of the flange on the wax ring? I can purchase a ring with or without the flange. How do I know whether to get the standard ring or the thick ring? I really don't like the idea of trial and error. 1) A leak may not show up until just after I've concluded that there are no leaks. 2) the marginal increase in price for the thicker ring is so small as to make the cost of my time the overwhelming factor (is it safe to always use the thick ring?) How tall the ring is depends on how close the toilet's outlet horn is to the flange. Under ideal conditions, the standard ring is just a bit too tall so that it compresses just enough to form a good seal without squeezing out into the drainage path and causing an obstruction.

Toilets with more than normal spacing will need a taller ring to achieve a proper seal. But if you use a tall ring without the flange on a properly spaced toilet installation, excess wax will be squeezed into the drainage path, causing an undesirable obstruction. This is why double height rings are often sold with flanges, the flange keeps the wax out of the drainage path. But the flange itself is a bit smaller than the outlet pipe, so it forms a bit of an obstruction itself. Thus, it's not something you want to use unless there's a good chance you'll need it. You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. Adjust this measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor. The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once installed. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring.

If it will compress more, consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage path. I always purchase the extra-thick ring with the flange. The cost difference is not that great. The flange helps to ensure that the ring is centered over the flange in the floor and to direct the waste into the pipe. More wax in the ring helps ensure a good and thick seal. The purpose of the flange on the ring itself is to help guide installation and to keep excess wax from obstructing the drain. Yes you can buy a wax ring with or without the attached plastic "guide" flange at any home improvement store. The flange is supposed to sit on top of the floor, but sometimes people remodeling a home install flooring on top of original flooring, causing the flange to be recessed. I guess a thicker wax ring would help counteract this, but if this is the case you should get a floor flange extender. You don't know what you have until you get the toilet up. Just buy a regular ring, and if your flange is recessed in the floor get a flange extender.