We are constantly working to provide the best customer service in the marine and RV markets. This website is designed to offer you answers to frequently asked questions relating to installation, application, troubleshooting and other miscellaneous technical requests. It includes all current product datasheets available as well as a variety of Do-it-yourself (DIY) videos to help with your technical information needs. Servicing A Jabsco Quiet Flush Toilet Can I hook up fresh water to LiteFlush toilet? How-to Install a new Pump Assembly on a Manual Toilet What Size Toilet Bowl do I Have? How do I know the Direction of Flow in my Y-Valve? How-to Identify your Electric Toilet What Kind of Strainers do we Offer? Diagnosing Back Flow of Waste into your Marine Head How Does An Impeller Pump Work? Using an Impeller Puller – PN 50070-0200 et al. Winterizing an Impeller Style Bilge Pump How Does the Pump on a Jabsco Manual Toilet Work?

Winterizing a Washdown Pump Video Winterizing a Raw Water Quiet Flush or Deluxe Flush Series Electric Toilet Electric Head Blocked Discharge (Waste won’t evacuate bowl) 18590 Series Macerator – How to Rotate the Discharge 18590 Series Macerator Service Kit Installation Quiet Flush & Deluxe Flush Toilet Solenoid Wiring – 37038 Series Valve Manual Toilet – Which one do I have?Coyote Pups For Sale Oregon Deluxe Flush 2 Black Wires on the Control Box- What are they for?Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner Chevy Manual Toilet Pump Squeaking Repair-29090 or 29120 SeriesWasher And Dryer Sale Greensboro Nc Manual Toilet Not Bringing Water In Repair-29090 or 29120 Top Valve Gasket Manual Toilet Joker Valve Replacement -29090 or 29120 Series

Manual Toilet Base Valve Gasket Repair-29090 or 29120 Series Quiet Flush & Deluxe Flush Toilet Solenoid Repair-37038 Series Valve (Water filling bowl) 18590 Series Macerator Fuse Diagnosis Joker Valve Replacement-37010 37045 37245 Series Toilets Manual Toilet Changing From Right Handed to Left Handed Lite Flush New 2 Button Controller Right Angle (90 degree) Discharge for 37010 37045 37245 Electric ToiletRevised by BoatUS editors in April 2012Modern marine toilets require minimal maintenance, but ignore them completely at your own peril.Heads flushed with salt water accumulate scale deposits in the discharge channels and hoses. Scale deposits cause a head to get progressively harder to flush, and it is scale on the valves that allows water in the discharge line to leak back into the bowl. Calcium deposits eventually lead to total blockage, a most unpleasant prospect. Avoiding this problem is as easy as running a pint of white vinegar through the head once a month.

Move the vinegar through the head slowly, giving the head a single pump every 4 or 5 minutes. The mildly acidic vinegar dissolves fresh scale inside the head and hoses. When the vinegar has passed all the way through the system, pump a gallon of fresh water through to flush the lines. If you suspect you already have a scale build-up, dissolve it with a 10% solution of muriatic acid, available from most hardware stores. The acid won't harm porcelain, plastic, or rubber parts. It does attack metal, but consequential damage takes a long time. The biggest danger is to eyes and skin, so be sure you observe all label precautions. Pour two cups of acid into the bowl. It will fizz as it reacts with the calcium deposits on the bowl valve. When the fizzing stops, pump the head--intake closed--just enough to empty the bowl. This moves the acid into the pump. After a few minutes pump again to move the acid into the discharge hose. Let it sit a few more minutes before opening the intake and thoroughly flushing the toilet and lines.

The acid is "used up" as it reacts with the calcium, so heavy scaling may call for more than one treatment. Scale and salt also find their way into the anti-siphon valve in the discharge line. Remove the valve and soak it in warm, soapy water to dissolve deposits that could be holding it shut or open.To keep the pump operating smoothly, follow your monthly vinegar flush with a dose of oil. The best choice is a lubricant intended for marine toilets, but you can also use mineral oil. Oil lubricates the pump wall and helps to keep internal rubber and leather parts supple. The usual treatment is to let a little water into the bowl, pour in a couple of ounces of lube, and pump this through the toilet. This method is adequate, but less than ideal because it lubricates only the discharge side of the pump. To also lubricate the intake side, disconnect the intake hose from the closed seacock and pour the oil into this hose. Pumping the head will pull this oil through both chambers of the pump. 

While you are servicing the head, lightly coat the piston rod with Teflon grease. This will prolong the life of the piston-rod seal. Marine toilets need not stink, but they often do. The discharge hose is, by far, the most common culprit. To check yours, rub the hose with a damp, clean cloth, then sniff the cloth. If it has picked up an odor, the hose is permeable and you will never eliminate the odor until you replace this hose with proper sanitation hose. Leaking connections are another source of odor, and you can use your cloth the same way to locate a leak. Also check the seal around the piston rod. On some heads, tightening the seal will stop a leak; on others a leaky piston-rod seal must be replaced.Another common source of head odor is grass and other marine life trapped inside the flush-water passage under the rim of the bowl. Prevent this by installing a strainer in the intake line. An anti-siphon valve in the discharge line can also release odors into the boat. A properly installed valve vents outside the cabin area. 

If the toilet gives off a foul odor but it isn't leaking, if it is difficult to pump but the discharge hose isn't clogged, or if it just isn't working right, it is time for an overhaul. The exact procedure for rebuilding your head will depend upon the make and model, but marine toilets are simple machines and you are not likely to encounter many difficulties. Rebuild kits are available that contain new valves, springs, gaskets, and often screws--in short, everything you need to recondition the toilet. The kit will also provide a detailed instruction sheet.What the instruction sheet may not tell you is that overhauling a toilet is always more pleasant and nearly always easier when you remove it from the head compartment before taking it apart. It may also fail to instruct you to lay out the parts in order as you dismantle the toilet so you will know which screws go where, or how each valve should be oriented. A few general rules apply to virtually all manual toilets and may help you to avoid problems: