Loose screws can cause the seat and lid to fall unexpectedly. Hearing your toilet seat squeak when you sit on it or lift it is more than an annoying sound; it could signify that your seat is loose. Continuing to use a loose seat can lead to the hinges breaking or someone falling from an unstable toilet seat. Loose seats can also fall hard and unexpectedly, hurting you or the toilet base. There's an easy fix for your squeaky toilet seat using common household tools. Close the toilet lid. Pry the screw covers open with a flat-head screwdriver. Use gentle pressure only; most screw covers are made of plastic and can break easily. Find the nuts under the back of the toilet bowl. Hold the first nut in place with pliers, then turn the screw on the top clockwise to tighten it. Apply firm pressure, but don't overtighten and crack the plastic screw. Repeat with the second nut and screw. Wiggle the seat to make sure it doesn't move side to side, or squeak, then close the screw caps. Squirt a small amount of spray lubricant into the hinges at the back of the toilet seat.

Open and close the lid and seat to work the lubricant throughout the hinges. Hinges tend to be tight and squeak, especially if the seat is new. Wipe away excess lubricant with a damp rag. Things You Will Need Flat-head screwdriver Pliers Spray lubricant Damp rag References WD-40: 2,000+ UsesHome Depot: Making Minor Adjustments to Your Toilet Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Polka Dot/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionLost your remote or accidentally dropped it in the toilet? Yep, we've heard it all! Order your replacement Swash Bidet Seat Remote here! Swash 1000 Remote Control Swash 900 Remote Control Swash 300 Remote Control Compatible with all Swash bidet seats, but model-specific. Please be sure to order the correct remote and call us if you have any questions! Swash Bidet Seat Video Benefits of the Swash Which Swash is right for me? Chrome Elbow Bidet Hose Bidet Hose Extension Kit Swash Bidet Remote Control Swash Bidet Mounting Kit Swash Bidet Seat T-Valve

Carex Bidet Seat Riser with Handles Carex Bidet Seat Riser Swash Bidet Top Mount Hardware Kit Toilet Leaks Between the Tank and the Bowl When I flush the toilet, I noticed that water seems to leak on the floor from between the tank and the bowl. How can I repair This is symptomatic of a leak in the tank-to-bowl seal or around the following steps for a quick and sure repair: Shut off the water to the toilet.13x19 T-Shirt Transfer Paper Flush the toilet, and then sponge out the water remaining in the tank. Waterfront Homes For Sale Pei Canada Be sure to take out any bricks, bottles, small water craft, or fish that may remain in theAllure Vinyl Flooring For Sale Disconnect the inlet tube at the toilet, not at the shutoff.

If you disconnect the tube at the shutoff compression fitting, there is less of a chance that you will be able to reuse the line later. Look at the line itself. If it is chromed and has a washer on the top, you should try to get a replacement washer when you go to the hardware store. stores don't have them, so you may want to purchase a new supply tube while you are out. Since there are a few different variations on the supply lines, see install a new intake line to my toilet? Now comes the fun part. You must now unbolt the toilet tank from the toilet bowl. If you look inside the toilet tank, you will see two very large slotted screw heads. These go through the tank and the bowl, with a nut on the end under the toilet. Sometimes they are easy, and sometimes not. If they do not budge at all, you can drill the screw head out. Using an 1/8" or thereabouts bit, drill one hole through the center of each screw, at least 1/4" in. This is your guide.

Go through your box of drill bits, increasing the size of the hole until the head of the screw comes off. It's made of brass, so the drilling won't be difficult if your bitsAnd, since you are working around porcelain, control your drill and be careful not to damage the toilet. Lift the tank off of the bowl. You will see a disgusting mess of melted rubber and other vile stuff... this was the tank-to-bowl seal! Peel it off the tank, put it in a bag, and drive it over to the undertaker... I mean hardware store. Most hardware stores worth their salt will offer a few different sizes of this seal, so it pays to have something toPlus, it gives you something to show off to the guys! Hey, I didn't say to leave the hardware store yet! You also need to purchase a newEven if you didn't have to drill out the old set, don't reuse it. The new kit will supply you all the parts you need, and is designed to make it easier to get a leakproof seal. The generic tank-to-bowl bolt kits I have used a specific order of assembly.

different from the factory kits in that they have additional parts to get a better seal. If you do not assemble them correctly, the seals between the tank and the bolt heads willA metal washer and a fiber washer are put on the bolt. Slide the bolt into the tank holes from the inside. The fiber washer should be in contact with the inside of the tank. There is a nut that must be secured to the bottom of the tank. This nut tightens the bolt head against the inside of the tank, squeezing the fiber washer tightly to form a Place the new tank-to-bowl seal on the base of the flapper assemblyIf your water is heavily chlorinated, rubbing some silicone plumber's grease onto the seal should increase its useful life. Don't use Vaseline petroleum jelly... it may react with the rubber and Position the tank over the bowl so that the bolts go through the holes in the bowl. one fiber washer, one metal washer, and a nut (or in some cases a wing nut) and begin to

tighten the tank to the bowl. To prevent breakage of the tank, tighten the nuts a few turns each, keeping even downward pressure on the tank-to-bowl seal. DO NOT ALLOW THE TANK BOLTS TO TURN WHEN TIGHTENING THE TANK-TO-BOWL NUTS! The bolt heads should be held stationery (using a screwdriver) when tightening the tank-to-bowl mounting nuts. Allowing the bolt head to turn may twist the washer under the bolt head, leading to a leak. (Note: If you are using a manufacturer replacement kit you may only have a single nut per bolt. It is even more important to do all the tightening at the nut, not the bolt, for the same reason... possible damage to the seal.) Check the orientation of the tank with respect to the intake line. If you are going to reuse the old intake line, it should be close enough to the threads on the inlet valve to begin threading the coupling nut. You can start threading the coupling nut, but do not tighten it completely at this point. Continue to alternately tighten the nut onto the tank bolts until the bottom of the