Maya Indoor Lighting Setup

Add Backgrounds (2D & 3D) & Materials Gradient material on a flat background Scaling and Tiling a material For best results, only use materials that are sized in a power of two. (512x512, 1024x1024, 2048x2048, 4096x4096). 4K is the maximum allowed size. The scale a material create a node chain like this: Play has a suite of lighting options for an entire scene, as well as three types of lights. This table shows all of the options that you have to light the entire scene. You will find these options in the viewport settings, in the hierarchy. Play Interactively with this, or read about them below: List of built in lighting Description of texture and environmentA warm sunset on one side with a cool fill on the other. An indoor room with a few ceiling lights and a window. An empty grey studio with a ring of softboxes above Two softboxes with a cool center light Two softboxes with a warm center lightan indoor setup with two virtual softboxes on either side
Very similar to the default softlight, but more blurred softboxes Plaza has the brightest sun, extreme directional lighting. A warm outdoor setting of a sunset on a plaza A cool snowfield diffused with low light. You can import a pre-made project showing these, by using the project ID 15042608 The three lighting types are Spot, Directional, and Point. You can find them in the Node Library If you use the light objects, it might be a good idea to turn down the exposure of the environmental lighting, so as not to over expose your scene.It looks like this was the result of either:Publishers of technology books, eBooks, and videos for creative peopleWe're sorry, we encountered an error while processing your request.We apologize for any inconvenience. If the problem persists, please contact us. (Please include the URL of the page you were trying to access.) Create AccountTopicsAdobe PhotoshopAppleDesignDigital PhotographyDigital VideoGadgetsProductivity
Web Design & Development StoreBookseBooksVideoWeb EditionsAuthorsSafariExploreAbout UsAcademic ResourcesAffiliatesArticlesBlogsNewslettersPressUser Groups A typical three-point lighting setup Three-point lighting is a standard method used in visual media such as theatre, video, film, still photography and computer-generated imagery.[1] By using three separate positions, the photographer can illuminate the shot's subject (such as a person) however desired, while also controlling (or eliminating entirely) the shading and shadows produced by direct lighting. The key light, as the name suggests, shines directly upon the subject and serves as its principal illuminator; more than anything else, the strength, color and angle of the key determines the shot's overall lighting design. In indoor shots, the key is commonly a specialized lamp, or a camera's flash. In outdoor daytime shots, the Sun often serves as the key light. In this case, of course, the photographer cannot set the light in the exact position he or she wants, so instead arranges it to best capture the sunlight, perhaps after waiting for the sun to position itself just right.
A portrait with three-point lighting: a 300 watt key light, a 150 watt back light, and fill light from a bounce board An animated demonstration of three-point lightingPrice Pfister Single Handle Bathroom Faucet Repair The fill light also shines on the subject, but from a side angle relative to the key and is often placed at a lower position than the key (about at the level of the subject's face). Nikon Digital Camera D40 Battery ChargerIt balances the key by illuminating shaded surfaces, and lessening or eliminating chiaroscuro effects, such as the shadow cast by a person's nose upon the rest of the face. Homes For Sale In Windgate Annapolis MdIt is usually softer and less bright than the key light (up to half), and more to a flood.
Not using a fill at all can result in stark contrasts (due to shadows) across the subject's surface, depending upon the key light's harshness. Sometimes, as in low-key lighting, this is a deliberate effect, but shots intended to look more natural and less stylistic require a fill. In some situations a photographer can use a reflector (such as a piece of white cardstock mounted off-camera, or even a white-painted wall) as a fill light instead of an actual lamp. Reflecting and redirecting the key light's rays back upon the subject from a different angle can cause a softer, subtler effect than using another lamp. The back light (a.k.a. the rim, hair, or shoulder light) shines on the subject from behind, often (but not necessarily) to one side or the other. It gives the subject a rim of light, serving to separate the subject from the background and highlighting contours. Back light or rim light is different from a kick in that a kick (or kicker) contributes to a portion of the shading on the visible surface of the subject, while a rim light only creates a thin outline around the subject without necessarily hitting the front (visible) surface of the subject at all.
A three point system in theatre can be used in a variety of ways to help set a mood of the character. By having bright key light, but minimal fill and back light, this will give the effect of anger, whereas if the scene is very brightly lit with little shadow on the actor, this can make the scene look very happy. A typical four-point lighting setup The addition of a fourth light, the background light, makes for a four-point lighting setup. The background light is placed behind the subject(s), on a high grid, or low to the ground. Unlike the other three lights, which illuminate foreground elements like actors and props, it illuminates background elements, such as walls or outdoor scenery. This technique can be used to eliminate shadows cast by foreground elements onto the background, or to draw more attention to the background. It also helps to off-set the single eye nature of the camera, this means that it helps the camera give depth to the subject. Here is an outline of how I setup my lighting in my scenes, and I broke it up into 8 steps:
1. Create Daylight System (allow mr Photographic Exposure, and mr Physical Sky) 2. Set exposure Preset to Physically Based Lighting, Indoor Daylight 3. Turn OFF Final Gather (FG) 4. Turn ON Global Illumination (GI) 5. Tweak and save .pmap file, switch to Read Photons Only from Existing Map Files 6. Turn ON FG, create interior lights (photometric lights) 7. Save .fgm, switch to Read FG Points Only from Existing Map Files 8. Turn ON mr Sky Portals (optional), and Render image 1. Create Daylight System Setting my exposure to the preset default of interior daylight gives me a good benchmark to know what to tweak my lighting against.  If you don’t have your exposure set up correctly, you could be cranking the lights up till the cows come home.  Having the proper exposure ensures that your light settings are within somewhat physically accurate ranges. 3.Turn OFF Final Gather 4.Turn ON Global Illumination 5.Tweak and save .pmap file
Maximum Sampling Radius: 1’ Average GI Photons per Light: 20000 Maximum Sampling Radius: 5’ Maximum Sampling Radius: 10’ Maximum Sampling Radius: 30’ Average GI Photons per Light: 40000 Average GI Photons per Light: 60000 Average GI Photons per Light: 80000 Maximum Sampling Radius: 4’ Average GI Photons per Light: 2000000 6.Turn ON FG, create interior lights As far as FG settings, I usually set the FG Precision Presets to Draft believe it or not.  I leave most everything else at their default value. Often I change the Noise Filtering from Standard to None.  This allows mental ray to use all of the FG bounces rather than dropping some of them to smooth it out. A little about filtering your FG map:  If you calculate FG with no filtering, when you render there is no need for  mr sky portals.  If you calculate FG with standard filtering, then when you render you will want to use mr Sky portals.  Both of these methods will give you the same lighting results.