Ready-to-use, latex-based product used to fill cracks, fastener or knot holes and level low areas in plywood subfloors or concrete surfaces. The floor patch and leveler will remain flexible allowing the plywood subfloor to flex without cracking the filled-in areas. Ideal for filling and leveling surfaces prior to installation of carpeting, vinyl floor tile or sheeting, as well as ceramic or mosaic floor tile. The DAP Store Locator finds the 15 nearest retail locations to the address you specify. Please note the specific item you have requested may not be in stock at the time of your visit. We recommend calling the store first to ensure that the product you have requested is available. In some cases the item may require a short lead-time delivery from the retailer's warehouse. Please enter your starting location information: Series III Cypress 17" Series III Patriot 17" Series III Preserver II Series III Savoy 17" ALL Eljer Repair Parts Eljer Emblem Toilet Seats

- John and Kathy Bondur, Vineyard Haven (island of Martha's Vineyard), Massachusetts 02568 - Gillian Rutter, Cupertino, California 95014-1163 - Todd M. Barton, Glendale, California 91202-1005 DIAMOND Seal® Technology features a valve embedded with diamonds to ensure like-new operation for the life of the faucet Meets standards set by Americans with Disabilities Act Includes convenient side sprayer 2 or 4-hole 8 in. installation Standard spout swivels 120degrees for added convenience Ideas for Your Kitchen Request a Design Consultation Get design tips, view inspirational photos, and discover great products. Shop our accessory store for cabinet and drawer accessories, hardware and cabinetry care kits. Let one of our professional kitchen designers bring your vision to life. Not sure where to begin? Our step-by-step planners can help get you started. Plan Your Kitchen Plan Your BathIf you ever find yourself staring at a hole marring an otherwise perfectly good wall, don't worry.

Patching drywall is easier than it looks: you just need the right tools and a few basic principles. There are a lot of different products and "easy fixes" for patching drywall holes on the market, but I've found that sticking to the basics is always best for projects like this. For patching a hole up to 6-7" in diameter, I would suggest these tools: There are two distinct steps involved in patching drywall: securing a new piece of wallboard in place, and taping and finishing the wall.Ahd Blinds To secure a new piece of wallboard in place, you're probably going to want to cut an even larger hole in the wall you're patching. 3d Movie Ticket Price HarkinsI know, it's counterintuitive, but think of it this way: it's easier to cut a square patch of drywall that is larger than your hole, then hold it to the wall and trace so that you can cut a close match out of the wall, instead of trying to cut an irregularly shaped patch to fit in the existing hole.Plott Hounds For Sale In Iowa

To cut a patch from a scrap piece of drywall you can usually use any kind of utility knife to cut through the top layer of paper, snap the wallboard back, then cut the back side of the board to release the piece. To cut a matching hole in the wall you can use a keyhole saw like this, or—my favorite—a a spiral saw like the RotoZip. (I always jump at the chance to use a power tool.) The patch itself needs to be attached to something before you can move on to taping and mudding the wall. In most cases, there isn't a wall stud handy right where the hole is. For smaller holes, here's the method I use:1. Get a small piece of scrap wood that is narrower but longer than the hole you are patching, and a couple of drywall screws. 2. Place the scrap wood inside the hole, then hold it tight to the inside of the wall and screw through the drywall above and below the hole to secure the wood in place. (This is something you'll need to use a drill/driver for, it can't be done by hand with a screwdriver.)

3. Now you can screw your drywall patch onto the wood, and it should sit flush with the rest of the wall and a minimal gap. Now that all of the "structural" work is complete, you'll want finish the patch with tape and joint compound. There aren't any power tools involved in this part of the work, just a couple of drywall knives, sandpaper, and some good ol' fashioned elbow grease. Note: this is not something you can complete in an hour, or even a day, because you'll need to put multiple coats of joint compound on, and it's imperative they fully dry between coats. To start, put a decently thick layer of joint compound on the wall, then tear off a piece of drywall tape and push it into the mud. Use a 6" taping knife and working outward from the center, run the knife over the tape with even pressure to flatten it into the mud. You want all of the tape to be embedded in the mud without any wrinkles or bubbles. Do this for all edges of the patch, then clean your tools and wait until the joint compound is completely dry.

(I usually wait a full 24 hours.) Next, start layering joint compound over the patched area. Many people put on as little compound as possible on the walls. I did this for years, and it was a big mistake. Instead, put a lot of compound on the wall first, then go back with your knife and scrape off the excess to leave a smooth-ish patch over the drywall. This is an example from finishing a drywall seam, but the same concept applies. In order to make the patched area blend in to the existing wall, you'll want to put joint compound in a much larger area than the original patch. This is just to illustrate that the final "patch" will be much larger than the original hole.Once the first coat dries you'll need to sand it down, and will likely need one final coat. I do not recommend using the little sanding sponges that seem so popular because they can apply uneven pressure when sanding. Instead, a sanding pad like this is a good option. Each subsequent coat of mud should cover a larger area than the last to help everything blend in to the wall.