Polaris Atv Tire Inflation

Posted in GEAR GUIDES, RIDES By Staff When the world is in shambles, you’re going to need something more suitable than your Hyundai Elantra to get yourself around most any terrain as well as protect you from looters, rabid packs of wolves, and of course, zombies. While compiling this list of the ten best apocalypse survival vehicles, we took into account the fact that you’ll definitely need a moderate fuel supply stashed away to drive these monsters for a while. If, however, fuel is scarce following a societal breakdown of apocalyptic proportions, then be sure and take a look at our essential zombie gear, since you’ll be going at it on foot. Knight XV Armored SUV The Knight XV by Conquest Vehicles is a fully armored tactical-ready luxury vehicle built to meet the requirements of ballistic testing. This beast on four wheels is powered by a biofueled 6.8-Liter V10 engine and includes transparent tinted armored glass, cabin seating, front and rear night vision cameras, a dual screen rear console with side-mounted laptop stations, ballistic fiberglass bumpers and fenders, custom aluminum wheels, and navigation and bluetooth systems.

Although it sticks out like a sore thumb, there’s not much that’s going to penetrate the Knight XV once its located. Chevrolet Silverado Black Ops Concept A pickup truck seems a logical choice for carrying around all of your food and gear with you during an apocalypse, however the Chevrolet Silverado Black Ops Concept Vehicle does so much more. Along with 4×4 capabilities, a lifted suspension system and a 355 horsepower 5.3-Liter V8 engine, the Black Ops Concept sports lower body armor in case you run into some unexpected land mines, built-in gas masks, a military first aid kit, a solar power pack and built-in generator, and a lockable truck vault for stashing your food and weapons.
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The Caterham Brutus 750 Motorcycle is especially apocalypse friendly thanks to a responsive, fuel-friendly 750cc single cylinder engine, trail-worthy tires, and a special design that not only easily adapts to any terrain both on and off-road, but also converts into a snowmobile. Following an apocalypse, its safe to say that the highways and interstates will be congested with broken-down vehicles that are not on this list, and generally not drivable after years of neglect. Luckily, the Ghe-O Rescue can tackle any terrain on the Earth’s surface. Along with a heavy duty transmission, lockable axles, and a waterproof 500 horsepower diesel or gasoline engine, the Ghe-O Rescue can be specially outfitted with pneumatic wheel pillows that allow the vehicle to float on water, snow tracks, a medical stretcher, a plow, and a 620 liter water pump for quick response firefighting. You May Also Like: The 21 Best Fixed Blade Knives A heavily armored vehicle designed for both military and post apocalyptic survival operations, the INKAS Huron APC tactical armored vehicle features a ballistic design with special armor protection that can withstand hits from large-caliber ammunition, projectiles, and hordes of brain-hungry zombies.

Additional features include a blast-protected floor that is impermeable to hand grenades and land mines, an optional roof-mounted gun turret, noise insulation, a rugged, off-road design, and a fuel-guzzling 8.3-Liter Paccar Engine with a ten-speed manual Allison transmission. Keeping the tank full will definitely be a problem, however once your fuel rations run dry, the INKAS Huron APC could just as easily double as your house. When you’re in doubt about what to drive should you survive the apocalypse, just remember that bigger is usually better. There aren’t many vehicles bigger than the Mercedes-Benz G63-inspired Brabus B63S, thanks to a beefed-up suspension, large off-road tires, a front spoiler, a carbon fiber wheel scoop, and prominent wheel arches. A 700 horsepower 5.5-Liter V8 engine is good for a top speed of 160 MPH, more than powerful enough to outrun or even run over the hordes of zombies coming after you. Polaris Sportsman WV850 H.O. Why does the Polaris Sportsman WV850 H.O. qualify as an apocalypse survival vehicle?

Not only is an ATV quick, fuel efficient, and perfect for tackling tight, rough terrain, but the WV850 H.O. features a bullet proof steel exoskeleton, steel racks, a 77 horsepower single speed transmission, an impressive towing capacity of 1,500 pounds, and the world’s first ever non-pneumatic tires that can take a licking from a .50 caliber round of ammo and still keep riding for the next 350 miles. Nothing short of a tank is stopping a Mercedes-Benz Unimog. It features an Apocalypse ready panoramic cab, interior ventilation system, a hydraulics system, an on-board tire inflation system that ensures the appropriate tire pressure for whatever terrain you’re crossing, and ten different models to choose from, the obvious choice for surviving the apocalypse being the unstoppable 7.7-Liter engine with 8 forward gears and 6 reverse gears capable of 354 horsepower. Unless zombie movies have been completely inaccurate for the past 60 years, we’re pretty sure that zombies can’t swim, which is why owning a Quadski Amphibious ATV after an apocalypse is a logical choice.

Essentially an ATV and Waverunner rolled into one package, the Quadski goes from land to water in 4 seconds at the push of a button, while a BMW 4-cyclinder engine allows you to travel up to 45 miles per hour on both land and water. Mercedes-Benz G-Wagon LAPV 6.X Designed as a patrol vehicle for dangerous parts of the world, the Mercedes-Benz G-Wagon LAPV 6.X will be just at home amid the chaos and ruin of an apocalypse thanks to a steel body with reinforced armor plating, an armored underbody that protects against driving in explosive minefields and rough off-road conditions, an adjustable suspension system with over 18-inches of ground clearance, an on-board tire inflation system, and an integrated communications system. You May Also Like: The 10 Best TomahawksSAFETY FIRST: Protective gloves and eyewear are recommended at this point. Release the air from the tube by removing the valve stem core. Loosen the lock nut that holds the inner tube in place. Using a bead breaker or a suitable tool break the bead on both sides of the tire.

Be careful not to damage the rim. Install two tire irons just under the bead of the tire about three or four inches apart. Make sure not to pinch the tube with the tire irons. Push the tire bead into the drop center portion of the rim opposite the tire irons using your knees, as shown in the photo. Pull the tire irons towards you until the tire starts coming over the rim. Pull out one tire iron while holding the other one down. Re-insert the tire iron 2 or 3 inches away from where it was and pull it back towards you again. Repeat until the one side of the tire is off the rim completely. With the bead off of one side of the rim, remove the inner tube from the tire. Insert your two tire irons under the second bead and pull them towards you. Leave one tire iron under the bead to hold the tire from slipping back onto the rim. As in the photo above, you can trap the tire iron under the brake disc to hold it in place while you work with the other tire iron. Remove the other tire iron and start working your way around the tire until it is removed from the rim.

Inspect the rim strip. If worn out or torn, replace it. Now is a good time to spray a penetrating oil such as WD 40 on the spoke nipples to keep them from corroding. Wipe all the excess oil off before continuing. Before installing the new tire, check to see if it is a directional tire. If the tire is directional it will have an arrow molded into it, like the one shown in the photo, indicating the direction of rotation. Lube both tire beads with soapy water before installing. This will make installation much easier. Wedge one side of the tire onto the rim using your hands. If the tire won’t go on all the way by hand, use your tire irons to help install it. Install the inner tube into the tire at this time. If installing a new inner tube, remove the valve stem core. Do not allow the tube to become twisted. Align the valve stem and insert it into its hole. Thread the nut onto the valve stem. Apply just enough air to the tube to straighten it out and then let the air back out.

Use the flat side of the tire iron for installation. Compress the second bead down with your knees so that it is in the drop center portion of the rim and carefully insert your tire iron under the tire. When installing the tire iron, try to feel where the tube is before inserting the tire iron, this will help prevent pinching the inner tube. Use one tire iron to hold the tire in place so the bead doesn’t work its way off. Keep working around the tire carefully until the tire is all the way on. Move the tire iron a small amount at a time. Temporarily inflate the tube with the valve core removed to seat the tire bead. Install the valve core and inflate the tire so that the bead is evenly seated against the rim edge on both sides. If you’re having trouble seating the bead, deflate the tube and press the tire into the rim and reapply soapy water to the bead. Install the valve stem core and tighten it completely. Set the tire pressure to the manufacturer’s recommendation.