Thank you for visiting homedepot.ca. Our website is temporarily unavailable due to scheduled maintenance. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. Thank you for your patience and come visit us again soon. Merci de votre visite sur homedepot.ca. En raison d’un entretien périodique, notre site Internet est temporairement indisponible. Nous nous excusons pour tout inconvénient que ceci pourrait occasionner. Merci pour votre patience et revenez nous visiter bientôt. I have a one-handle "Marielle" model Pfister kitchen faucet diagrammed here. It leaked, so I replaced the cartridge, which solved the problem. A few weeks later, I happened to drain my hot water heater to get rid of sediment. Right after that, perhaps only coincidentally, my kitchen faucet output was reduced to a dribble, both hot and cold equally, even with the spout's aerator removed. Oddly, the hand spray still has plenty of pressure (hot and cold). All other faucets work fine. Disassembling the faucet, including taking apart the cartridge, which is clean, reveals nothing.

The diverter valve (951-050 in the diagram) had a tiny chunk of sediment but removing that made no difference. Kittens For Sale Athens OhioRunning wires through the faucet's connection legs finds no clogs or gunk. 3m Command Towel HolderDisconnecting the incoming hot and cold lines and diverting them into a bucket reveals they have plenty of pressure. Patio Furniture Macomb CountyThe pressure is dying after entering the faucet. What's the cause of my problem? Whenever you have sediment going through your water system the end result is the sediment usually getting stuck in a filter. Your sink has a filter on the nozzle. You need to simply unscrew the very end of the nozzle (941-004) and clean (941-005). This is the culprit 98% of the time.

In the future if you are cleaning any plumbing and possible sediment is running through your house turn on the washer supply hose (a lot of times these are dual headed and if it isn't unscrew the hose to your washer) for 10 mins or a good couple buckets. You might not see much but that will keep you from cleaning a bunch of faucets. And tub is OK to use but your valve (if newer) probably has filters in its cartridge. A new diverter valve fixed the problem. Pfister also sent the two big o-rings (950-910) which undoubtedly helped too, since the bottom ring seemed a bit loose. Bottom line: if your hand spray has good pressure but your faucet doesn't, it's the diverter valve.Browse other questions tagged plumbing faucet water-pressure or ask your own question.FAUCETS are valves for controlling water. There are four basic faucet designs: compression, ball-type, cartridge and disk. When any faucet starts to drip, the problem is usually a worn seal or component. Fortunately, these parts are readily available and replacing them is simple.

You can usually identify a faucet by its body configuration. Knowing the manufacturer can also help. Compression faucets usually have two handles, one for hot, the other for cold water. They have washers that wear quickly and often require replacement. (Repairing compression faucets was covered in the Home Clinic, June 4, 1995) Ball-type, cartridge and disk faucets are washerless; they usually require less maintenance. Ball-type faucets have a single handle mounted on a rounded cap. Delta or Peerless are leading ball-type faucet manufacturers. Cartridge faucets have cylindrical bodies and are available in single-handle or double-handle models. If your faucet was made by Aqualine, Moen, Price Pfister or Valley, it is probably a cartridge faucet. Disk faucets have cylindrical bodies and a single handle. American Standard and Reliant are popular disk-faucet brands. Before starting any repair, turn off the water by closing the shutoff valves under the sink. Open the faucet so that the water drains out.

It's a good idea to cover the drain in case you drop any small parts. Next, remove the faucet handle. Some handles are mounted on the body with a setscrew. Loosen it with an Allen wrench, then lift off the handle. Other handles are held in place with a screw through the top of the handle. The screw may be concealed under a decorative medallion or plastic cap. Pry the cap off with a screwdriver then remove the screw. Ball-type faucets control water flow with a hollow ball. Moving the handle rotates the ball over water supply ports and allows water to flow. The ports are fitted with neoprene valve seats that hug the ball and keep water from leaking. Positioned on top of the ball are a cam washer and a cam. The cam washer creates a water-tight seal above the ball; the cam helps to align the ball with the ports. The entire assembly is held in place by the rounded cap. If your ball-type faucet leaks, try tightening the cap with a pair of channel-type pliers. Tape the plier jaws with masking tape so they will not mar the cap finish.

If the faucet still drips, the valve seats or the cam washer are probably worn and should be replaced. In rare instances, the ball may be damaged and need to be replaced. Manufacturers offer different repair kits that contain the parts needed to fix the faucet. A complete kit should include a new cam, cam washer, two valve seats, seat springs and an instruction sheet showing the correct replacement procedures. Depending upon the faucet, the kit may also include a small tool to help remove an adjusting ring in the cap (not present in all faucets). Remove the rounded cap by unscrewing it with the channel pliers. Lift off the cam and the cam washer, then lift out the rotating ball. Examine the ball carefully for signs of excessive wear. If the ball is damaged or worn, replace it. Replacement balls are available in plastic or metal. The metal ones are more expensive, but are more durable. Remove the neoprene valve seats and springs by prying them loose with a screwdriver. Install the new springs and valve seats;

replace the ball, the cam washer and cam. Many cams have a small tab that fits into a notch on the faucet body. This insures that the cam will be properly positioned in the faucet. Screw the rounded cap on the faucet, then replace the handle. Cartridge faucets have a rotating valve cylinder -- the cartridge -- that aligns with the water supply ports to control the flow of water. When the faucet leaks, it means that the cartridge is worn and needs to be replaced. To replace the cartridge, first remove the handle. The cartridge may be held in place with a threaded ring or a retainer clip. You can remove a retaining ring by unscrewing it with a pair of channel-type pliers. To remove a retainer clip, pry it loose with a common tip screwdriver. Remove the cartridge by gripping the cartridge stem and pulling it straight up. Cartridges come in many styles, so be sure to bring the old cartridge with you when buying the replacement. Push the replacement into the faucet, being careful to match any alignment tabs with their respective notches.