Please click on the links below to download our current .pdf catalogs.Price Pfister 17196-0100G Tub & Shower Faucet Instructions The Price Pfister 17196-0100G is a single-handle bathtub faucet designed to fully control hot and cold water, as well as the shower from a single control knob. Price Pfister, a leading plumbing fixture manufacturer owned by Stanley/Black and Decker, discontinued the 17196-0100G faucet in 2009, according to the American Society of Sanitary Engineers. However, older 17196-0100Gs can still be found, and succeeding models exist on the market, all with the same basic installation instructions. Installation requires removing the old faucet system first. Shut the water main off. Turn on the tub fixture, allowing the water trapped in the pipes to exit. When finished cover the bathtub drain with a towel, preventing parts from going down the drain. Remove all screws and Allen screws from the faucet and shower fixture. On the plates covering the fixture mounting surfaces, remove all screws with the appropriate screwdrivers and Allen wrenches.

Underneath the tub faucet is a small Allen screw, holding the faucet in place. Loosen it and pull the faucet cover off. Remove the tub and shower faucets by loosening the retaining nut with an adjustable wrench. Remove the old control assembly. Use an Allen wrench to remove the handle and, with the appropriate screwdriver, remove the hub screw on the control plate. Grab the stem extender, turn it to the left and pull it out. Remove the retaining ring with an adjustable wrench and pull the control assembly cover off. Unscrew the four screws holding the control valve in place, then pull the valve assembly out. Replace the valve with the new Price Pfister control valve, sliding it into place, then mounting it with the four valve screws. Replace the cover plate, retaining ring and handle in the reverse of the removal process Install the new tub faucet and shower fixture by fastening them first with the retaining nuts, then by screwing the plates back in place. Attach the faucet covers by tightening the Allen screw.

Turn the water back on at the main. All threaded pipes for the retaining nuts should be wrapped with Teflon tape prior to tightening. Stanley Black and Decker: One-handle Tub & Shower Troubleshooting & Installation Plumbing Supply: Price Pfister Single Handle Tub & Shower Parts American Society of Sanitary Engineers: Inactive 1016 Listings Stanley Black and Decker: Troubleshooting Guide Price Pfister 17196-0100G Tub & Shower Faucet Instructions; How to Install a Price Pfister Cartridge; Regardless of the age, type handle, or extra features on your Price Pfister single handle shower faucet, the disassembly process in basically... How to Adjust a Price Pfister Shower Valve Stem How to Replace a Price-Pfister Shower Cartridge How to Replace a Price Pfister Valve Cartridge Removing Price Pfister Faucet Handles in a Bathroom How to Take Apart a Price Pfister Bathroom Faucet Price Pfister Kitchen Faucet TroubleshootingAs anyone with even a little experience will tell you, the only honest answer is "it depends".

While most faucets have standard fittings and measurements that can easily replace an older unit, there are several other things that can complicate the process and turn what should be a 30 minute job into an all day marathon. Zillow Homes For Sale Camano Island WaAs one example, I recently replaced a kitchen faucet for a friend and was able to remove the old unit in about 15 minutes. Elkay Vessel FaucetsWithin another 10 minutes, I had the new unit assembled and in place with the water hoses attached. German Shepherd Puppies For Sale SchutzhundI was just about ready to declare victory when I noticed that the fitting that holds the handle onto the sink was a bit loose, allowing the entire handle to shift from side to side.

After a close examination of the installation instructions, I realized that the fitting had to be tightened with a special tool made only for this brand of faucets and, of course, not included with the faucet. My friend checked three different hardware stores but was unable to find the tool so I had to order one online. Deliver took two days and, because of my schedule, I wasn't able to get back to the job for another two days. With the correct tool in hand, I was able to tighten the fitting in about 5 minutes and got everything working about 5 minutes after that. Total time for the job? If you know what you're doing, have the right tools and take the time to carefully examine the job site, you should be able to complete the replacement in well under a hour. Whether its a rusty or unusually sized fitting, a broken or leaky valve, a too-small crevice under the sink or a missing part, however, there always seems to be something that makes the otherwise simple job of replacing a faucet a more difficult and,  occasionally, time-consuming chore.

/32-k...) and found instruction)Before & After: The kitchen faucet before replacement, and after! The new one is far more functional, with the high neck and one-handled operation.Check all the parts: My husband, a good and thorough engineer, went through the parts list and all the parts in the box before doing anything, just to make sure.Read the instructions: This should go without saying, but read the directions! This is one thing we were really impressed with; the Price-Pfister instructions were excellent. Well-written, well-illustrated, and well-designed, with a layman plumber in mind.Gather tools: The tools that you will probably need include a headlamp, pliers, a putty knife or chisel, and an adjustable/channel lock wrench. Also, this job will be MUCH easier if there are TWO people — one to handle the process, and the other to aid by handing tools, mopping up, and stabilizing parts while they're bolted in. (I'll let you guess which part I played.) Also, be ready to get a little dirty;

this will involve being on your back under the sink.Under sink - Turn off the water: Turn off the water sources under the sink by cranking the valves on the water supply lines.Disconnect the water hoses from the faucet handles: - If you have a two-handle sink, like we did, then you will need to disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the handles. Have a bucket ready, since they will drip out whatever water is left inside.Note hot and cold hoses: When you do this, make special note of which one is the hot water, and which one is the cold. It's often not as obvious as it should be, and you'll want to be sure when you reconnect them.Unbolt the faucet: The faucet will probably be held on to the sink underneath by these plastic bolt-type things. Easier said than done, of course; this may be the most difficult part of the whole process! It involves lying on your back in an awkward space, trying to unscrew these things with pliers.Above sink - Scrape away grout or putty under the faucet top: Scrape away any putty that is holding the faucet to the sink.

Remove the old faucet: This should be easy at this point, now that those plastic bolts are gone, and the putty scraped away.Clean the faucet area: Clean the faucet area down with soap and water, after scraping away any remaining grout or putty.Under/above sink - Assemble new faucet in holes - Back under the sink! This is where, now, your process may diverge a little from ours. You just need to follow the instructions for your new faucet. Place the new tap in the hole, and screw on the washers and bolts that will hold it in. There is usually a rubber washer that goes between it and the sink (we didn't feel putty or grout was necessary with this particular faucet set) then screw on the washers and bolts below. This is also where it's very helpful to have two people: one to stabilize and tighten from above, and the other below.Tighten washers and bolts - Make sure the faucet is tightly bolted in and doesn't wobble. Repeat with the other faucet elements, including a sprayer, if included, and the handle.

Check over your handle situation: Doublecheck the handle, as you put it in, and make sure you can see where the hot and cold hoses should go. If you have a sprayer there will be a third hose on the faucet handle that will get connected to the sprayer's hose.Carefully screw the water leads into the appropriate hoses. You will probably look something like this. (The headlamp may look dorky, but believe me — it is really, really, really helpful in this particular situation.) Once you are sure the hoses are all attached properly, turn on the water valves again.Test, enjoy, and brag about installing your own faucet. - If you've done this properly, you should now have water coming out of your faucet, and you're entitled to full bragging rights as a DIY plumber. Chances are, you’ll need to make more than one trip to the hardware store for parts, but to give yourself a fighting shot at completing the job with one-stop shopping, consult this list.Shutoff valves: Before you shop for your new faucet (see “Selecting a Faucet” at the end of this article), take a look under the sink and make sure that there are shutoff valves feeding the faucet.

If you don’t have shutoff valves, add them. If you have them, confirm that they’re in working order by turning on the hot and cold water at the faucet and shutting off the valves. If the faucet still drips, install new ones. Most likely you have 1/2-in. copper supply pipes. If so, add easy-to-install solderless “compression fitting” valves (Photos 9 and 10) to your shopping list. But if not, buy whichever valve type is compatible with your pipes.Supply tubes: Next, measure the existing supply tubes and buy new stainless steel–sleeved supply tubes (Photo 9). They’re designed to give rupture-free service for years and can be routed around obstacles without kinking.Basin wrench: Also buy a basin wrench ($15; This weird little wrench is made specifically for removing and installing those hard-to-reach fasteners that clamp older faucet assemblies to the sink. (Newer faucets have plastic Wing-Nuts that can usually be loosened and tightened by hand.) A basin wrench’s spring-loaded jaws pivot so you can either loosen or tighten nuts in tight spaces.