We experienced an error and were unable to complete your request. We're doing a minor remodel of our master bathroom, and I have replaced the 30+ year old diverter and nearby pipe with a new one from Delta. Now when any faucet in the house is turned on and off quickly, there is a hammering or banging sound coming from the diverter (2 or 3 bangs). Trying to hold the diverter and nearby pipes firmly still does not reduce the noise, though the diverter is certainly well secured to the brace. The photo below shows the extent of the plumbing I had to do. (Note the wonderful polybutylene at the right which transitions via a Sharkbite to the CPVC.) Are newer pressure balancing valves subject to this kind of hammering? That seems like a possibility since the old valve certainly did not balance the pressure. The only other thing I can think of is that I knocked some pipe strap/hanger loose somewhere, but why would it cause the sound to come from the diverter area? plumbing valve noise water-hammer

I'm not sure why you're suddenly having trouble with water hammer, the old plumbing may have been installed in such a way as to mitigate water hammer. Jcpenney Drapery CleaningSince I have no way of knowing what the old plumbing looked like and/or what you changed, I can't say for sure why you're having trouble.Vessel Sink Signature Hardware So I'll simply talk about a couple ways of stopping the hammering.Warehouse For Sale Rockwall Tx We [plumbers] used to try to stop water hammer with 12-18" capped risers, and this method worked great, just long enough for us to be on to the next job. The idea was that air would be trapped in the capped riser, which would provide a "cushion" for the fast moving water. This effect, however, is short lived.

The air is eventually absorbed into the water, and the riser becomes completely filled with water. Modern water hammer arrestors separate the water from the air, which allows them to function properly for much longer. Most devices either use a flexible bladder, or a piston type design to cushion the water and prevent hammering. These devices are usually less than 6" long, so they can fit in much tighter places. Cost wise they are comparable to the old method, so they are not going to break the bank. They are available with different connector types, so they can be connected to the existing plumbing in a variety of ways. As with the old style standpipes, water hammer arrestors should be installed in line with the flow of water. Water hammer arrestors should be installed near all fast acting valves, to prevent water hammer. While Tester101 provides a great answer for the classic case of water hammer, my situation is slightly different. The key piece of information from my question was that the noise occurred not only when faucets were turned off, but also when they were turned on.

, which suggested to inspect the check valves for debris. Previously I had inspected the valve cartridge, but failed to look at the check valve assembly which was behind this cartridge. Indeed, there were small fragments of polybutylene pipe that prevented the check valves from operating properly. Once I cleared out the fragments from the check valve, the hammering noise disappeared! Attempt at an Explanation In the static case, when no water was flowing anywhere in the house, the water pressure at the check valves of the cold and hot lines were the same, and because of the debris both check valves were slightly open. When the nearby faucet was turned on quickly, say on the cold side, the following series of events occurred: Water suddenly begins flowing from the cold line at the sink faucet, causing the pressure to suddenly decrease at the location of the cold check valve at the diverter. Now the pressure at the hot water line at the diverter is higher than the cold water line, causing water to suddenly flow from the hot line through the check valves to the cold side.

This sudden flow from the hot to the cold side of the diverter causes the hot check valve to slam open, and causes the cold check valve to slam (mostly) shut. The sudden stop of water flow causes a pressure surge which then causes noise just like traditional water hammer. Turning the cold faucet off again causes the whole sequence above to occur again, but in reverse. Another key piece of information is that the noise does not occur when both cold and hot faucets are turned on simultaneously. In this case the pressure at the diverter drops equally for both hot and cold, and thus no water flow. How to Avoid the Problem Of course what I should have done is what every decent set of instructions would have included (or what common sense would have told me if I hadn't been in a hurry): flush hot and cold water through the diverter before installing the valve catridge or check valves. This way any pipe fragments or bits of solder will not get stuck in the check valves.

In my experience, I tried everything on Google after countless searches of "banging noises after shutting off bathtub faucet," and "water hammer." None of it worked. As an example, I tried installing Sioux Chief Water Hammer Arrester, but that also did not work. I continued my research, and found the problem. The problem was the cartridge assembly inside of the faucet. Since my bathtub faucet was old, some of the things in the cartridge must have worn out and broken down internally, which caused a loud banging noise after turning off the water. If you have tried everything on this list, and nothing worked, I would search "cartridge assembly," and find which part fits your faucet. For me, it was the Delta Rp19804. Cheers everyone.Browse other questions tagged plumbing valve noise water-hammer or ask your own question.You turn on the shower and half of the water is coming out of the spout rather than the shower head. It is time to take a look at the diverter. This is a guide about repairing a bathtub spout diverter.

When I use my shower, the water is coming out of the faucet below and the shower head. It seems that the faucet part isn't completely shutting all the way for the all of the water to flow to and through the showerhead. Anyone have any household tips that I can use where I don't have to take the faucet apart to fix or replace? Can I just adjust something inside the faucet or do I need to replace a gasket in there? By Marilyn J Ference Flag0Best AnswerHaving just repaired this same problem - it's not the diverter (spout) that's the problem it's the cartridge that controls the water. If it is a single unit (i.e. hot and cold on same control) you need to pop off the center of the control knob, unscrew the rest of the knob and behind that is the cartridge. It is relatively simple to remove and replace (there's a "U" clip that holds it on to the plumbing pipe). Just pull the u-clip up and pull the cartridge off. Take that to your nearest Home Depot or Lowe's and they should be able to get the correct one for you.

Most cartridges are Moen but there is a wide variety of those too. Lowe's has a book that you can look it up in. If you aren't a DYI'er the you're only other option is to call a plumber but that's pricey. Good luck with your repairs. Reply By Homerepairtime Flag0Best AnswerIf that doesn't work. You may need to change the diverter. First, shut off the main to the faucet. Or if you are sure that it is the diverter and not the hot or cold stem, then just make sure the hot and cold are shut off. I recommend shutting off to the whole thing. Remove the handle: Some times there is a cover over the screw that attaches the handle to the diverter. Using a knife, remover the piece that usually shows the arrow, showing if the water is going to the tub or shower head. Pop this off and you will see a screw, remove this and take off the handle. Don't lose the screw. Then remove the collar, that just screws off. This is the piece that hides the hole. Then you need a tool that removes the stem. You can buy them in a 5 pack with different sizes, (You may see how easy it is and change out other stems) or you can buy the size you need, This tool is just a hexagon shaped piece of pipe with two holes at the end.

You place the pipe over the nut that you see after you remove the collar, place a screwdriver into the two holes, to make a handle and unscrew the stem. The whole thing will come out. At the very tip of the stem is a washer that is screwed in at the top. Look carefully at the washer, it is probably damaged. Take the stem and washer to a home center. Buy a pack of washers for less than $5. Unscrew the old washer, and install the new. Then reinstall the stem. Also, at one point on the stem, there is a black washer that is like a round rubberband that fits in a groove, make sure this is in place when you reinstall it. If you see that the stem is damaged, take it to Ace. or HD or Lowe's and match it. They have various stems. HD and L have some but Ace has them all. Check to see that each part matches the new one. The stems cost under $20. Turn your water back on, just a little to see if there is a leak. If you see some leaking, tighten the stem until it stops, then turn your water on all the way.

Rescrew the collar on and attach the handle. Make sure, when you buy the new stem that you take your handle with you, so the little stem that you attach the handle to is the same size. All your stems are the same way. Save a lot of money if you're not afraid to do this. Also, buy a Plumbing how to book, they are very good in teaching. Or if you still have questions go to Home Depot and talk to someone in plumbing. Make sure you go during the day and get a real plumber. Reply By sok kim Flag0I would replace the tub spout diverter with repair kit. Reply By replysvp Flag0Hi There, I just replaced a shower diverter and the new one leaked water at the spout and towards the back wall through the inside to the back (somehow). I re installed the original that was leaking (spraying out) the spout when diverted to the shower.I noticed your advice that it may be the cartridge. This is a single handle type. Please explain how the (faulty) cartridge can cause this problem. I really would like to understand this.thank you,Acky Reply