Buying Used Mercedes Benz Parts - Guide & Tips Do you need replacement used Mercedes Benz parts? Our extensive network of Mercedes Benz salvage/junkyards and auto recyclers can be a great place for you to find that incredible good buy of Mercedes Benz used parts. Note the terms "Mercedes Benz Used Salvage Yard Part", "Mercedes Benz Recycled Part", "Mercedes Benz Salvage Part", "Mercedes Benz Quality Replacement Part" or "Mercedes Benz Like Kind Quality Part" refer to Mercedes Benz used parts. Finding a used part in a modern salvage yard is similar to the shopping experience one would have in a contemporary retail store. Many of our salvage yards and used car part dealers use an advanced part inventory system. Digging through loads of rusty old cars is a job with in itself and a style of business from the past. A wrecked Mercedes Benz car or truck is initially brought into the salvage yard to be dismantled. Then its useable parts get stored in a warehouse. Generally, the fast-moving popular parts such as bumpers, headlights, taillights, radiators, alternators, and seats are standing by on the display shelves.

Our locating service connects you with a major network of salvage yards around the country. Our system will provide you with the essential vehicle/part information and the price within a few seconds. We can save you hours of frustration by eliminating the tedious time spent calling customers and/or salvage yards. Find below some of the salvage yards that may stock the Mercedes Benz parts you are looking for: We are ready to help you find parts for all Mercedes Benz models such as 190dt, 260e, 280e, 300cdt, 300e, 300sel, 300te, 380sec, 400e, 450se, 500e, 560sec, 600sel, C240, C320, C43, Cl55, CL63 AMG, Clk430, CLK550, CLS550, E320, E500, E63 AMG, GL450, Ml500, R320, S320, S430, S550, Sl320, Sl600, SLK32 AMG, SLR McLaren. Note all Mercedes Benz part price quotes are negotiable to an extent, so do not walk out from a deal before trying to barter. For example, if you get a price quote on a Torque Converter or CD Player / Radio for your Mercedes Benz that is only in a reasonable condition, you may be able talk the price down.

In general, your used Mercedes Benz part will cost you about half the price of a new Mercedes Benz OEM part. FYI: Salvage yard dismantles only complete assemblies such as Crankshaft, Air Conditioner Compressor Clutch, Exhaust Part, Heater Core, Radio, Door Window Regulator (Rear), Throttle Body/Valve Assembly, Cab Clip, Starter Motor, Flywheel, Carburetor, Radiator Core Support, Vacuum Pump, Park Lamp, Throttle Body/Valve Assembly,Indoor Water Fountains Sydney Clutch Slave Cylinder, Crankshaft, Clutch Slave Cylinder,Dogs For Sale Kilwinning Transmission, Leaf Spring (Front)2002 Bmw E39 Fog Light BulbThis kind of parts is a good candidate for Mercedes Benz quality replacement part. Another good candidate for quality replacement part could be the expensive Mercedes Benz electronic equipment such as audio system, car speakers, radio, stereo and computer.

Note: We do not recommend inexpensive Mercedes Benz mechanical, maintenance parts, or labor-intensive components as candidates for QRP. Save yourself time, money and frustration - Do not buy used mechanical/repair parts such as Mercedes Benz Oil Pressure Tube, A/C Overheat Switch, PCV Hose Nipple, Clutch Master Cylinder, Converter Drain Plug, Glass Fuse,Sensor, Defroster Switch, Adjusting Bar Bushing, AT Fluid Screen Gasket, Grille Lock Pin Clip, Oil Pump Spacer, Timing Chain Tensioner, Sway Bar Bracket, Vacuum Valve, Distributor Housing, Fuel Level Relay, Intermediate Shaft, Differential Seal, Header Pipe ClampNote you can buy a new aftermarket Mercedes Benz mechanical part for a little bit more money but without the possibility of failure after installation. Added on: April 13, 2010 Learn how to remove the Seat Control Unit from your Mercedes Benz from the hand of the experts of 4Mercedes. ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ►

Edit ArticleHow to Disable a Seat Belt Alarm Four Methods:Installing a Seat Belt Alarm StopperDisabling the Seat Belt Alarm with Manufacturer’s ToolsBypassing the Alarm from Inside the ReceptacleCutting the Seat Belt Sensor WireCommunity Q&A It is common knowledge that you should wear your seat belt while driving. Yet, there are many situations where a factory seat belt alarm can become a nuisance. For example, if you are driving on a farm at low speeds with many stops, you may not need a seat belt. More urban situations, such as taking your wallet out in a drive-through or letting your dog ride shotgun, can also be unpleasant with a constant ding. Sometimes, it is even possible for the alarm to get “stuck” and ding constantly whether you are buckled or not. Luckily, it is usually possible to disable this alarm. Choose a seat belt alarm stopper. Purchase your seat belt alarm stopper of choice. Install the seat belt alarm stopper. Beware of the airbag risk.

Check the user manual or ask your reseller to disable it per software. Almost all manuals give instructions on how to disarm the seat belt alarm without cutting any wires. This usually consists of doing a series of tasks in the car while parked. As an example, the sequence for turning off the seat belt alarm on a Toyota Camry (2004 and newer) is given below. Insert the key and turn the power on. You should not crank the engine. There is a knob on your dash panel that toggles your trip and total odometer readings. Press this knob until you see “ODO” on the instrument panel. You should turn the key off, and then back on. Hold the same knob for 10-15 seconds. While still holding the knob, put on your seatbelt, and then release the knob. You should see “B OFF” flash on the instrument panel. This indicates that you turned off your seat belt alarm.This may mean following the steps in the owner’s manual for reprogramming your alarm, which, as described above, is often a series of actions taken while the car is parked.

Alternatively, you can take the vehicle to your dealer to do this. Some vehicles may have to go to the dealer to be reprogrammed with specific software. It is worth noting that dealerships are often reluctant to fulfill this request due to legal and liability issues. Locate the torx screws on the seat belt receptacle. Remove the screws using a hollow T10 bit. Remove the plastic side cover. Remove the small spring and slide the switch down to its lowermost position. This will indicate to the sensor that your seat belt is on all the time. This will prevent the alarm from ever going off.[3] You can double check by watching the seat belt light on the dash go out. Replace the plastic cover and screws. Slide the cover back on. Use your T10 bit to replace the torx screws. Turn the screws clockwise until tight. Store the small spring for use in the future. Look under the driver seat. Trace the wire under the seat. Look for two wires running together.

These two wires are connected when your seat belt is latched, and disconnected when it is unlatched. That is how the seat belt sensor knows when to ding. You will need to connect them permanently. Cut through both wires. This will disconnect both wires from your seat belt receptacle. It will also give you the wire ends you need to splice these wires together. That will connect them permanently.You want to connect the two pieces of wire that are coming to/going from your seat belt sensor. That means, do not connect the ends of the wire that go to your seat belt receptacle. To connect the wires, twist, crimp, or solder them together. Insulate the wire ends. Tuck the wires away from the seat brackets. You might need a flashlight to see better under the seat. Drive your vehicle afterwards to check if it worked; if you cut the wrong wires, just use butt connectors to re-connect them. It should make no difference whether the belt was plugged in while you do this, but it may be different on the different varieties of vehicles.