How to Install Curtain Rods A simple way to add style and comfort to the windows in your home. Ever since we remodeled our kitchen, I knew I wanted a roman shade for the new back door.I may or may not have bought 6 yards of my beloved navy toile last summer at a Joann's sale, and have yet to use any of it. I knew this would be the perfect place for it. I got a quote for a custom shade, and even though I already had the fabric, it was going to be over $100. My window is only 24x38 inches!So I searched high and low for directions on how to make one on my own. Apparently not many people DIY on the roman shades, because I couldn't find many-just kits to order. I did find a tutorial that looked doable here. I'll admit, though, sewing the rings and the bar for the bottom looks a little daunting. Martha's was even confusing. This one, though, was perfect. Jenny is an absolute genius!I'll share my take on her brilliant tutorial.This is how the window has been looking lately. If newspaper and painter's tape ever becomes a style, I'm covered.

Who knows what kind of scary bad guys are lurking out there, looking at me through the kitchen window?vinyl mini-blinds cut to size for your windowfabric (I would reccomend home decorator fabric for its extra heft, but I bet linen would be really pretty)Heat n Bond iron-on adhesive, less than 1 inch thickfabric glueAnd here's what I did...My window is 24x38, so I cut my fabric 26x40 to be safe and to allow for 1 inch hems.I folded all the edges over 1 inch and ironed them.I then ironed in Heat n Bond to make a hem. I love this stuff! Whenever I can, I use the iron-on adhesive instead of fabric glue. It's easier, there's no mess, and I don't have to wait for it to dry.I folded in the corners to make a smooth finished edge, so I wouldn't have an excess folded fabric overlapping the edges.I folded the corner down...And ironed it again.After my edges were finished, I marked the back side of the fabric every 9.25" or so. This is where the slats will be glued. If you have to fudge it by fractions of an inch because your window size doesn't divide easily, no one will ever know.

Depending on how many folds you want and the size of your shade, you may have more or less.Then I needed to prepare the mini-blinds.I (obviously) didn't already have any for my window, so I bought mine at Menard's for $10.99, and they cut them (widthwise) to size right in the store for me for free. I had to adjust the length myself, which was surprisingly easy. If you are just revamping a set of blinds already hanging in your window, forget about this.First, pop out the circular stops on the bottom bar.Snip the cord above the stops. Snip enough of the cord so when it is fully extended, it's the length of the window plus a few inches to knot it again. (If you buy a new set of mini-blinds to do this project, there are much clearer directions in the box.) Save the stops to reattach later. Then snip the ladder cord out of the slats. Be careful not to cut the pull cord that you just trimmed off the bottom.Unlace the unnecessary slats and the bottom bar. Save the bottom bar and enough of the slats for each fold you marked (I needed 4).

Reattach the bottom bar.After the blinds are ready, start gluing the fabric. The tutorials say to use fabric glue and not hot glue. I think it's because the hot glue will start to disintegrate after sitting in the sun for so long.Avis Car Rental Nz Auckland AirportI started with the top bar...Real Estate For Sale In Teramo ItalyAnd then went on to the slats. Cat Scratching Post Vancouver BcBe careful not to glue the cord, or the shade won't work.My kitchen door is metal, so rather than wait for Hubby to mount the brackets for me, I found these super strong magnets at the hardware store and used them instead.I attached them with epoxy glue.And let them dry overnight before hanging them. (Actually I waited about 20 minutes, tried hanging the shade, the glue let loose, the shade fell, and then I let them dry overnight.)

And here's the finished product.I'm really happy with it.The one layer of fabric is just enough to filter the light and keep the bad guys from looking in my window at night. I think I may add a layer of blackout fabric for a liner later on. If I were to put a shade like this in a bedroom, I would definitely add the extra layer right away.And the mom in me will remind anyone hanging a shade to make sure the pull cords are up and out of reach of little hands.The page you requested cannot be found.This morning as I was going through some new blog posts by various bloggers I follow, I spotted this beautiful shade over at Dear Lillie. Gorgeous shades made from a drop cloth and then painted. What a fabulous idea...it definitely got my mind rolling again about further possibilities! To see the other great parties I'm linking up to, click HERE!What makes panel blinds from Blinds On The Net so unique is that the wide panels reflect and filter daylight so effectively yet slide sideways making them perfect for sliding doors and windows.

When open, the panel glide blinds stack neatly behind one another, allowing maximum light into the room. When drawn, these sliding blinds create a complete fabric screen, providing light control and increased privacy. Our panel track blinds will transform the look of any room with its cultured, sophisticated appearance and style. Coordinate throughout your home with the same fabric for your panel blinds, roller blinds and roman blinds. Choose from Translucent, natural-looking fabrics, Screens or 100% blockout fabrics to get the best light and heat control for your home. We are able to manufacture Panel Blinds in lots of other fabrics not featured on this page. Fabrics in our Australian Custom Made Roller Blind section are also possible. Please contact us for information on prices and placing an order.I love roller blinds for their functionality (privacy and light blockage are there when you want it, gone when you don’t), but they’re not always the most exciting thing to look at.

(Plain sheet of white vinyl? But here’s a simple way to snazz up the situation — sew your own, using a hacked purchased blind as a base. I think fabric blinds have a minimalism that’s really chic, and they allow you to use bold prints that could be too much in a full-on curtain. Best of all, you can start and finish this project in just a couple hours, so a window makeover is just an afternoon away. CLICK HERE for the full roller blind how-to after the jump! heavy-duty roller blinds (including necessary hardware to hang them) medium-weight fabric (determine how much you’ll need in Step 2) all-purpose thread to match your fabric L-square or yard stick OR cutting mat, rotary cutter and straight edge Sturdy, medium-heavy fabrics (such as light canvas, cotton twill or decor-weight cottons) work best for this project. A somewhat stiff fabric is preferable over something softer, as the stiff fabric will roll up more successfully than flimsier choices.

If you have your heart set on a lightweight fabric, I’d suggest lining it with fusible interfacing to give it more body and stiffness. Although I haven’t tried it, stiff sheer fabrics (like the sheer panels sold at Ikea) would probably work well here too. 2. Hack, Install, and Measure One important thing to note is that you should choose a heavy-weight roller blind (sometimes labeled “maximum light blocking,” or similar). The spring mechanism in lighter blinds isn’t always strong enough to support the weight of a fabric shade, so I suggest playing it safe and going heavy-duty. Install the original (pre-hacked) blind in your window following the manufacturer’s instructions. Note the direction the blind rolls (ie, with the blind rolling from the back or the front of the roller), as well as which end of the roller goes to the left and right. You’ll need to plan your blind so that it rolls in exactly the same way. Remove the vinyl shade from the purchased roller blind and reserve it for another use.

(I gave mine to a friend who is going to use it as a drop cloth when painting.) Also remove the dowel or plastic bar from the bottom of the blind, and set it aside (you’ll use it later). Measure the roller bar from end to end, just inside the caps on each end. Add 1″ to this length for measurement A. Also measure the distance from the roller bar to the spot where you would like the blind to fall, and add 9″ to this length for measurement B. Cut a piece of fabric that’s as wide as A and long as B. It’s important to cut the fabric straight and even, so that the blind will hang straight. This is probably the trickiest part of this project, so take a little extra care to be sure you’ve got it really straight. To get a good, straight cut, use the selvedge edge of your fabric as a guide — you can count on the selvedge edge to be straight, so if you work from that line, you’ll be on the right track. If you have access to one, I highly recommend a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and straight edge for this job, as these tools make it really easy to cut perfectly straight lines and right angles.

If you don’t have these, you can use an L-square or a yard stick to mark straight lines. Make the first cut along the selvedge edge, then measure from that line to make the remaining cuts, being careful to cut right angles so that all edges will be straight. Turn under the long side edges 1/2″ and press. (Note: only turn the fabric under once, not twice as you would normally do. It’s best to avoid extra bulk in the seams so that the blind will roll up neatly, and a double-fold would case more bulk. This does mean that the raw edge of the fabric will be visible on the back side of the curtain, but what the heck, live dangerously!) Sew along the side seams, stitching close to the folded-under raw edge. Next, turn under the bottom edge 1/2″ and press, then turn it under another 1 1/2″ and press again. Stitch in place, sewing close to the interior fold. (Note: the sides of the hem will stay open, which creates a sleeve for inserting the dowel at the bottom of the blind.)