What is a reasonable cost for installing a new floor flange and reseating a toilet? My toilet was leaking around the base. The plumber said that a new floor flange had to be installed. Then the toilet was re-installed on the new floor flange.I was billed $535. Is this considerd a a resonable charge. I believe it at least over $100 too much. OK - are you talking a floor flange (a metal plate the toilet bolts down to) or the wax ring that acts as a gasket between the flange and the toilet ?To replace the wax ring and reinstall the toilet would usually be about $100 - maybe $150 in large cities and high-cost areas - normally a minimum visit charge plus about $5 for the wax ring.If the flange was corroded so bad it was not holding the mounting bolts, then the cost would depend on how much trouble it was to replace. If it turned right off, with or without the nipple (short piece of pipe it mounts to) then the cost would have been little more than just replacing the wax ring - maybe $10-20 more for the parts.

However, if he had to open up the ceiling below or go into the basement or whatever and break it free from there, that would have been maybe an extra half hour to hour.Not having seen what it took to fix it, and what pipes may have broken when he tried to break it free, I would be reluctant to bad-mouth the plumber, but normally replacing the flange (and wax ring) would be a $250-300, 2 hour range job, so yours is definitely over the norm, to say the least. Beyond that, one would have to know exactly what had to be done (or how long it took) to say if it was "fair" or not.I presume in all this there was no drywall repair and painting involved in the $535 - if that was included to repair the hole he cut, then you are getting into the reasonable range - at least $400+. The toilet and flange our mounted on a concrete foundation. Would this involve clearing concrete around the sewer pipe to possibly repair the pipe to accept a new floor flange? OK - I totally spaced on the possibility of it being in a slab.

It definitely involved some concrete removal, in all likelihood - without knowing what he took out hard to tell, but if he had to cut through the concrete to remove the flange and the first piece of pipe then you are in the reasonable price range. If the flange was badly corroded by some leakage, then it is quite possible one of two things happened - the first piece of pipe below it was corrroded too so he replaced it as well, or if you sewer pipe is plastic a corroded flange can come off so hard that you can break the plastic pipe below it, so he might have had to dig out more than a little concrete to get room to cleanly cut that off Homes For Sale In Northwood Hills Dallas Texasand put on another piece of plastic pipe, then the nipple and flange. Toilet Seat Hinges BemisIf he was working at this for 4 hours or so or you saw him mixing grout to repair the floor, that is probably what the case was.French Bulldog Puppies For Sale St Louis

This is one of those cases where at first blush the price seems too high by quite a bit, but if you look into it in depth there may be a perfectly legitimate explanation. Can't say more than that without pictures of what the situation was - unless he was in and out in an hour or two I would assume this was legit and curse your luck that it happened in a basement toilet. Sounds reasonable considering the concrete. However replacing the flange yourself is an easy job. I recently used the Culwell Flange to replace the flanges in all of my bathrooms. It seals to the floor. Has anyone used this flange? Answered 12 months ago4" Closet Flange Extension Kit (C)Whether you're installing a better-flushing toilet or resetting the old one after remodeling, these tips will help you do it faster and with fewer problems. If you’re buying a new toilet, you need to know the “rough-in” measurement of the old one. majority of toilets, the waste pipe is centered about 12 in. from the wall.

But with a few models, that measurement is 10 in. or 14 from the wall to the thickness of the be a bit harder. only one or two 10-in. models and no have to special-order a toilet, be prepared to spend much more. If there’s a door near the toilet, also measure how far the bowl protrudesIf you replace a standard bowl with an “elongated” model, the door may not close. Brass bolts are best Lock down the bolts A rock-solid toilet flange is the key to a leak-free toilet. the only thing anchoring the toiletIf the flange is loose or damaged, the toilet will rock. And a rocking toilet will distort the wax ring and cause leaks. sure to scrape off the old wax ring and inspect the flange. some solutions for broken, corroded Eliminate rocking with shims Sit on the toilet to squish the wax ring Don't overtighten the water connections Cut the bolts last To make positioning a toilet

easier, new toilet bolts are extraThat means you have to cut off the protruding ends later with a hacksaw. connect the water line, flush the toilet a couple of times and bolts uncut until you’ve done these final checks lets you easily remove and reset the toilet if you find any problems. the bolts for tightness. Cutting often loosens the nuts a bit. 3,796 posts, read 4,512,454 times 14,431 posts, read 8,729,071 times Originally Posted by robrobrob Sounds like it is not flat on the tiles....slight rock.... over top of what? with an all new flange set at the "new" height? the problem is somewhere between the floor, the flange, and the wax ring. Honestly, I don't remember. I would hope that the plumber who installed the toilet put a new flange on. The same plumber came back and fixed it. The floor is definitely higher now. The installers put down the 1/4 inch cement board (I think that is what is called) and then installed the tile on top.

Could the toilet bowl be cracked? Unless the plumber and the tile guy are the same person... Drain it and pull the toilet. See what you have. 33,576 posts, read 32,317,761 times 226 posts, read 564,699 times I doubt your toilet is cracked. Sounds like your tile are higher than your flange. They make an extension flange you can put on at tile height. Your toilet needs to be bolted down securely and your wax ring wouldn't do it's job if it's not at tile height.......... Originally Posted by LeeMar Well finally pulled the toilet and the flange was beneath the tile. Put a spacer in and a new wax ring so keeping my fingers crossed. My only problem is that I couldn't screw the spacer down because the screws wouldn't bite. So, I just put it on top of the flange and am hoping that toilet screws hold it in place. Anyway, if this doesn't work I am going to call a plumber. Thanks for the help and Happy Holidays. 2,357 posts, read 3,149,053 times 25,644 posts, read 21,697,976 times