Toilet Fill Valve Gets Stuck

Good quality & price.Worked Great, QuietVery Quiet as the sayworks fine and was easy to installthe tank seal never leaked & the instruction sheet is easy to followFits Low 1-Piece Toilet Tanks Like American Standard 2037Very rugged valve !15-20 minute install including removing the old one. Easy to install (5 minutes tops)←PreviousNext→ See 1 answered question Customers also viewed these itemsKorky 528T Replacement toto Fill Valve32Toto TSU99A.X Universal Fill Valve40FLUIDMASTER 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Fill Valve25Korky 528MP MaxPerformance Fill Valve8Need customer service? How a Toilet Works To better understand how your toilet works, take the lid off of your tank and flush the toilet a few times. When you push the handle, the chain lifts the flapper valve (also called the stopper or tank ball) Water in the tank flows through the flush valve opening into the toilet bowl. The water from the tank forces waste water in the toilet bowl through the trap and into the main drain.

Once the tank is empty, the flapper valve closes and the fill valve/ballcock refills the tank. When the tank is full, the float ball shuts off the fill valve/ballcock. Water on the Floor Around the Toilet If you have water on the floor around your toilet, fix the problem right away so moisture does not damage your subfloor.Start by checking all connections - the tank bolts, the fill valve/ballcock mounting nut and supply tube coupling nut.
Digital Camera 20x Optical Zoom ReviewsIf so, you may need to replace the washers.
Maine Coon Cats West MichiganIf water is dripping from the side of the tank during warm humid weather, it may be condensation.
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Use proper ventilation to help reduce condensation. Another solution is a toilet liner kit, a foam panel placed inside the tank. Is the toilet tank cracked? If so, you need to buy a new tank. Water around the base of a toilet could be caused by a wax ring that no longer seals or by a cracked toilet base. If the toilet leaks constantly, the toilet base is cracked and must be replaced. If leaking occurs during or after a flush, replace the wax ring. Check the flush handle, flush lever/lift arm, chain, flapper valve and the connections between each of the parts to make sure all are functioning. The handle may be too loose or tight. The lift arm may be bent or broken. The connection between the lift arm and lift chain may be broken or out of adjustment, so it does not raise the flapper valve far enough. Toilet Won't Flush All the Way There are three main things to check for; Too much slack in the lift chain. Low water level in the tank. Make sure the flapper is installed properly and it's the correct model for your toilet.

Make sure the water supply is open and the valve parts are clean and operating correctly. A toilet that won't stop running wastes water and costs money. The problem is usually in the fill tank. Do some simple tests before resorting to installing a new toilet. Make sure the water supply line is turned completely open. Some fill valves/ballcocks can be easily disassembled and cleaned (see valve instructions or valve manufacturer's website for details). If possible, replace the fill valve diaphragm seal. Replacement seals are available for several fill valves/ballcocks. Replace the fill valve/ballcock. It's easier than it may sound. Replacement fill valves/ballcocks are reasonably priced and can be installed simply by following the manufacturer's instructions. Stuck or Loose Toilet Handle Remove the tank cover and clean the mounting nut (located on the inside behind the handle) so the handle operates smoothly. If there is a buildup of lime around the mounting nut, clean it with a brush dipped in vinegar.

Watch our DIY Basics video: How Do I Unclog My Toilet?Below you will find step-by-step instructions on how to change a bottom entry fill valve in a toilet cistern, and a list of toilet manufacturers that this brass shanked, bottom entry, fully adjustable fill valve from FlushKING will fit. You will find that FlushKING products are simple to fit without tools, however you will need to have tools ready to remove the old valve from the toilet. You will need a pair of grips, a flat head screwdriver and a towel. If you are looking to replace just the fill valve then you will need one of the two products below. You can check what product you need by looking at your existing cistern and identifying where the flush is currently placed. It is a good idea, while you are isolating the water supply to your toilet cistern, to consider changing your flush valve as well. If you have an old syphon flush these are generally single flush and waste a lot of water. Below are the products you would need to change the flush valve.

The flush valve is in two formats, a top-fixed flush valve and a fleximount cable flush. You can check what type of flush valve you need by looking at your cistern for how it flushes and compare it below. Complete cistern repair pack 1... Side entry toilet cistern fill Valve... Need help choosing the right product? Contact our experts now Step1: Check that you order the correct fill valve for your cistern type - when you have removed the cistern lid look inside. Does your water connection pipe enter it at the bottom of the cistern? Left or right makes no difference, it will either be from the bottom or the side. Use the comparison matrix above to compare to your toilet cistern. For this how-to guide we will use the Brass shanked, fully adjustable height, bottom fill valve as it's the most universal and robust fill valve. Step 2: When you look inside a bottom entry cistern you will see a fill pipe coming up from the bottom of the cistern with a float of some type either at the end of an arm or built around the pipe itself.

If this is not the case, and your water pipe connects at the side of the cistern the principle is the same, but you need a Side entry fill valve instead, and follow the instruction guide you will find here. Step 3: Ok, now we are sure we are working on a bottom entry cistern, the first thing you need to do is to switch of the water on the isolating valve on the water connection (if your toilet hasn't got its own isolating valve you may need to locate your stopcock and turn off your water supply). You will need your flat head screwdriver and use it to turn the screw head on the isolator 90 degrees to the off position. Step 4: Flush the toilet repeatedly to drain out any water in the cistern, and ensure the water is fully off by checking the cistern isn't filling again. You will need to use your towel to dry out any remaining water so that it is completely dry otherwise when you remove the old fill valve this water will escape as it is the lowest part of the cistern. Just soak it up and ring it down the toilet bowl, then place your towel under the cistern to catch any trapped water.

Step 5: Now you are ready to disconnect the water supply from the fill valve underneath the cistern. Take your grips (or an adjustable spanner) to the nut on the isolating valve or tap connector that is screwed onto the bottom of your fill valve and turn it anti-clockwise till it loosens enough to undo the rest by hand. You will get a small amount of water that is trapped in the pipe leak out, so make sure your towel is below to catch this. Step 6: You are now ready to remove the old fill valve as it is only held into the cistern with a plastic back-nut (normally plastic to prevent the cistern getting damaged). You should be able to undo the back-nut by hand as it only needs to be hand tight, but if it is being stubborn due to old sealants, use your grips to loosen it. Remove the nut completely and discard as your new unit will have its own back-nut in the box. Step 7: The fill valve should now lift out without any resistance at all, and make sure you remove any old rubber washers from inside the cistern that may be perished and stuck around the hole you now have in the bottom of your cistern.

Take a bit of time now to clean around the hole inside the cistern and also underneath it, as you will be need it to be smooth and clean to get a good watertight seal when the new FlushKING unit goes in. Step 8: Take out your new FlushKING adjustable fill valve and offer it up to the cistern so you can adjust the height to fit your toilet cistern. To adjust the height, push up the grey clamp ring just above the threaded part of the stem to unlock the adjustment thread, then pull the lower section down until it is at the correct height for your cistern. Once you are happy with the height, pull the locking ring back down to lock it in place. (Don't worry if it's not quite right, this can be done after it is installed.) Step 9: Remove the back-nut from the new fill valve, making sure to leave the coned rubber washer in place as this will create the watertight seal at the bottom. Lower the new FlushKING valve into the cistern making sure that as you lower it the green float that is wrapped around the pipe is free to move up and down as this is the only moving part that needs clearance.

Once you have the threaded end through the hole, check and adjust the height of the pipe again to fit under the closed lid. Step 10: Take your back-nut from the FlushKING fill valve and you will notice that it has tabs on it to make it easier to tighten by hand. You shouldn't need to use grips here as the design of the cone washer and the back-nut should create a watertight seal simply by hand tightening. So place the nut over the threaded brass shank and turn clockwise until the slack is taken up, check the cone washer is sitting central in the hole and then nip the back-nut up until it feels tight and offers resistance. Step 11: Now it is time to connect your water supply back to the cistern by reconnecting the nut from the isolating valve or tap connector (although this is the perfect time to add an isolating valve whilst the water is off). Switch on the water and check for any leaks by running your fingers over every joint you have worked on. Once you are happy all is dry and there are no leaks, test the fill valve by flushing the toilet and allowing it to refill.