The shiplap walls in this she shed help create the rustic, beachy look designer Danielle Driscoll was looking for. Take a look at her blog, Finding Silver Pennies, and you’ll see that Danielle is pretty much an expert on how to achieve this coastal look. Shiplap is the style of horizontal wood paneling you see in the photo above. You’ll often also see shiplap in farmhouse, cottage or shabby chic interiors. Take a look at the full tour of her amazing coastal she shed here on The Home Depot Blog. It’s a cute, cozy space for getting away from it all, right in her backyard. Danielle was kind enough also to show us exactly how she created the authentic shiplap walls in her she shed and painted them, so you can incorporate it in your own backyard retreat, bedroom *Note: This shed is the Horizon model from Sheds USA. After assembling our supplies, we started with the back wall first. We put quarter-inch spacers on the floor to lift the lowest board up so there would still be ventilation behind the paneling.

The pine shiplap has a lovely warm hue which would be nice for a mountain retreat or country shed, but I wanted pure white walls. We screwed our boards into the wall using the white screws. The great thing about shiplap is that the boards slot right on top of each other, so it is pretty quick to install. Below, you can see the back wall coming along. We decided to take the shiplap up to the ceiling to make the room appear bigger. The top board is ripped with a table saw and cut at an angle to match that of the roof joists. When we got to the smaller walls on the ends, and the front wall, we cut boards to fit on either side of the doors and windows. Luke, my husband, used a miter saw to cut the boards to the right length. To go around the top of the windows, we cut the shape of the windows using a jigsaw, with a guide to keep a straight line. Once all the walls were in place, I spot-primed all the knots with Zinsser Bulls Eye Primer. This primer has shellac in it that prevents knots from bleeding through.

There were a lot of knots, as you can see. Once the primer dried, I painted three coats of Behr’s Premium Plus Ultra Paint and Primer in One in Polar Bear exterior matte. As this is an outdoor unheated shed all of the products chosen were for exterior use, from paint to rugs to furniture. I rolled and brushed on the paint. I know most people think white is white, but this is a cool, coastal white, perfect for the shed.Log Homes For Sale In Ely Mn These walls are perfectly coastal now, but the DIYs didn’t stop there on updating the interior.Motorhomes For Sale Vancouver Bc Once the shiplap walls were up and painted, the chipboard ceiling really stood out. How To Replace A Toilet Ballcock Assembly

To add more natural light we screwed bead board sheets to the ceiling joists. The floors also got two coats of Behr Exterior semi-transparent waterproofing floor stain in Cape Cod Gray. This gave the floors an instant look of a lime wash or weathered wood you often see in homes by the sea. Danielle has more about this amazing she shed on her blog, including more about the decorating and set up of the space. Danielle Driscoll usually has a paint brush in one hand and coffee in the other, ready to rescue and upcycle! Her blog, Finding Silver Pennies, is all about restoring her historic home, painting furniture and sharing all she has learned along the way. My toilet is getting a great deal of condensation on the tank and dripping onto the floor. What can be done to address condensation on the exterior of a toilet tank? When warm moist air comes in contact with a cold surface condensation forms. There used to be these tank liners sold that you would install on the inside of the tank to insulate it.

It keeps the outside of the tank from getting as cold to reduce or eliminate condensation. I did a quick search and couldn't find it anymore. I did however find toilet tanks that come with insulation already installed. The liners were just sheets of styrofoam. I guess you could get some styrofoam and cut it to fit. You'd have to cut the kits anyway. Then glue it to the side and bottom of the tank. Going with a tank that's already insulated would be a lot easier. While it is not a simple solution, one method of ensuring that toilet tanks do not sweat is the use of a mixing valve on the water feed to the tank. These valves mix hot with cold water to feed warm water to the tank. Warm water prevents condensation. The valve only needs to be set once unless you significantly change the temperature of your water heater. This is usually done when the toilet is being installed, but it can be retrofitted if you can get access water lines and there is also a hot water line near the riser to the toilet.

Images and links are for illustrative purposes only and are not an endorsement There are at least four strategies: Decrease the relative humidity of the air around the toilet tank. Increase the temperature of the tank. Prevent the air around the tank from contacting the tank.Put a catchment underneath the tank. Decrease the relative humidity with a dehumidifier in the room. Also, heating the air around the toilet decreases the air's relative humidity while simultaneously increasing the tank's temperature. Strategy #2 could be done with @bib's solution for heating the water. Or you could skip the mixer and run straight hot water to the tank (with no cold feed). Or you could rig some kind of heater in the tank. An electric solution seems replete with concerns but maybe a circulating radiant system exists at the location? @OrganicLawnDIY's answer is one way of implementing strategy #3. Another method would be to insulate the outside of the tank. I read on another site a successful solution for heating the tank was to use an aquarium heater.