Moen Bath Sink Faucet: A “Laying On Of Hands” Repair The Moen sink faucet in our black bathroom (so named because of its black tile, white trim, and gray floor) began piddling a few days ago, which seemed odd: Moen says it has a good-for-your-lifetime ceramic valve. So I took it apart, extracting an impressive vector of internal parts in the process. The “notch” that indicates the hot-cold alignment isn’t particularly obvious, but evidently forward corresponds to the usual hot-on-the-left plumbing: The retainer clip holding that white stop sleeve in place requires a bit of tweaking from a small pointy probe, but after you expose the hole in that notch the clip comes out easily enough: With all the frippery out of the way, then “Using pliers, pull the cartridge out of the body by the stem”, which simply did not work for me. No matter what, the cartridge body didn’t budge: There’s nothing about turning / unscrewing the transparent (looks black here) shell around the stem, so I didn’t try.

Putting enough of the parts back together to keep the cartridge from blowing out in my face (even if I can’t remove it, it’ll certainly blow out on its own), the faucet valve worked fine. Replace O Rings Moen Kitchen FaucetYou’re supposed to turn the gray pivot retainer 1/4 turn beyond hand tight, which compresses a wavy washer under the retainer. Used Tractor Tires Atlanta GaThe retainer had been quite loose when I dismantled the faucet, which suggests that either it hadn’t been tightened at the factory or had worked itself loose. Hunter Air Purifier Stopped WorkingThat would tend to hold the handle up just a bit, perhaps enough to prevent the valve from completely closing. After snugging that retainer  down tight and reassembling everything, the faucet worked perfectly: happy dance!

I removed the nozzle aerator and found a surprising amount of grit for something that’s downstream of the whole-house water filter and softener: Cleaned that out and it’s all good again. This entry was posted on 2011-11-27, 07:07 and is filed under Home Ec. You can follow any responses to this entry through RSS 2.0. Both comments and pings are currently closed.SINGLE-HANDLE kitchen and bathroom faucets often feature replaceable cartridge valves. Signs that a cartridge faucet needs repair are water dripping from the spout, difficulty in adjusting the water temperature, hot water entering cold water outlets like toilet supply lines and inadequately heated water at some faucets. The last symptoms occur because hot and cold water supplies come together at single-handle faucets. A malfunctioning faucet can allow water of each kind to enter the pipes of the other. Usually, cartridge faucet woes mean that the rubber O rings inside the faucet have worn out, or that passages within the cartridge have become clogged.

Repair consists of replacing the O rings and, if necessary, the cartridge. Before disassembling the faucet to get at the cartridge, first shut off the water supplying it. To do this, find the two shutoff valves beneath the sink that control the plumbing leading to the faucet. Turn the valves clockwise to close them. If you do not find shutoff valves beneath the sink, inspect elsewhere along the plumbing in the direction of the water meter. If you cannot find the shutoff valves, turn off the entire water supply by closing the main supply valve at the meter. In both cases, open the faucet to be repaired and let remaining water drain out. Then cover the drain hole in the sink so that small faucet parts will not fall in. Carefully pry up the decorative cap or cover from the top of the faucet by using a thin-blade screwdriver. Beneath should be a screw that holds the faucet knob or lever in place. Remove the screw and lift off the parts that come free. If there are several, lay them out in order nearby to ease reassembly.

Faucets with a swiveling spout usually have a round retainer nut sandwiched between the handle and the spout. The rim of the nut is visible even when the faucet is assembled and is grooved like the edge of a coin. Remove the nut by unscrewing it with channel-locking pliers (wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape to avoid marring the nut's edges). Then remove the spout by lifting and twisting. Beneath the spout is the cylindrical faucet body, which is usually surrounded by two O rings. If leaking has occurred around the base of the spout, these O rings should be replaced with duplicates. With the handle removed, and the spout, too, if necessary, the top of the cartridge should be visible, held in place by a horizontal metal clip resembling a long staple. Remove the clip with long-nose pliers. To remove the cartridge, first try pulling it out by gripping the stem with padded pliers. But if the cartridge sticks, which is likely, use a cartridge-pulling tool. If the stem has a hole through it near the top, follow the method shown in the illustration.

First, place a small block of wood behind the faucet body, or above it if the faucet is mounted horizontally on a wall. The top of the block should be even with, or extend up to an inch beyond the top of the cartridge. Next, insert a large nail through the hole in the stem so that approximately an inch of the nail protrudes on each side. Rotate the stem so that the nail and the block are parallel. Hold a pair of pliers by the jaws and slip the ends of the handles under the nail and onto the top of the block. The handles should straddle the stem. Then pry the cartridge out by pulling upward on the jaws of the pliers.If it feels smooth and the passages inside seem clear, replacing the O rings may be sufficient. To install new O rings, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and roll them into place over the cartridge body into their grooves. If the cartridge is clogged, corroded or damaged, obtain a new one. To install a cartridge, pull the stem out as far as possible, using pliers.

Then slide the cartridge into the faucet body by pressing against the cartridge rim. It is normal for water to appear around the stem when the cartridge is inserted. With the pliers, rotate the cartridge until the small tabs, called ears, at the top align with the slots in the the faucet body that permit installing the retainer clip. While pressing the cartridge into the faucet body, replace the clip by inserting it beneath the cartridge ears and into the slots. Use pliers to press the clip fully into place. On faucets controlled by a knob, rotate the stem until the notch at the upper end points away from the sink or tub floor. Reinstall the handle parts, screw and decorative cover or cap to complete the repair. On faucets controlled by a lever, point the notch in the opposite direction. If necessary, first install new O rings on the faucet body as described earlier. Then reinstall the spout and retainer nut. To reinstall the lever, hold it facing the sink. Hook the back of the handle ring (located inside the handle housing which is attached to the lever) over the top of the retainer nut and into the groove surrounding it, as shown in the illustration.