The requested URL /discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=287x9356 was not found on this server.In 1903, Niels Finsen won the Nobel Prize in Medicine for his use of ultraviolet light in the treatment of tuberculosis. Since then, ultraviolet lights have been widely adapted for all kinds of uses: sterilizing hospitals, sterilizing water, germicidal lamps in food establishments, and even curing nail polish faster. If UV light is so effective, how can it be applied to improving indoor air quality for residential HVAC systems? Will it kill mold and bacteria in HVAC systems? Yes, but you need to understand the priorities of indoor air quality and the types of UV lights available for residential HVAC systems. About 2 years ago, we installed a 19 SEER Lennox XC 21 air conditioner. During our most recent AC service, the technician also installed a TopTech HVAC UV light inside the air handler, which remains turned on 24/7. According to the technician from Engineered Air, HVAC UV lights are very effective at controlling mold inside the air handler.

All mold in line-of-sight of the UV bulb will be killed, keeping the coil mold-free. He also mentioned that several clients with respiratory problems are even able to tell if the UV bulb has burned-out due to reduced air quality. I’ll let you know if I am able to tell. There are two types of UV lights for HAVC systems. Two studies point to the effectiveness of UV light in killing mold and bacteria, one in hospitals and the other in a commercial HVAC system. The TopTech UV stick light bulb is estimated to last 9000 hours, just over 1 year. Replacement bulbs cost about $70. Replace the bulb during each annual HVAC service and maintenance is nearly effortless. The TopTech UV light we installed is rated at 1.1 amps. To calculate annual energy costs, I used these handy calculators For just under $100 per year ($24 electricity + $70 replacement bulb), my family has peace-of-mind knowing that we are breathing the highest-quality indoor air. It seems like a small price to pay.

But it doesn’t make sense to install an HVAC UV light unless you’ve followed the indoor air quality priorities. While HVAC UV lights are effective for killing mold, bacteria, germs and odors, make sure you have completed the indoor air quality basics: HVAC UV lights are an effective means for improving indoor air quality, but only after following the indoor air quality priorities. Install an HVAC UV light and experience healthier indoor air quality. Keep your air-conditioner (AC) maintained and you’ll not only save money on energy, but you’ll also extend its lifespan, saving money on costly early replacement. Dave Moody, HVAC pro from Service Experts, says, “An AC needs regular attention to be sure it’s operating at the highest efficiency.” The best time to use these tips is just before each cooling season begins. Your Heating, Ventilating, and Air-Conditioning system (HVAC) will consist of either a furnace and AC or a heat pump, which both heats and cools.

Both types will have an interior unit (evaporator and blower) and an exterior unit (condenser coil and compressor). Dunlop Tires For Go KartsThese instructions apply to a whole-home air-conditioning or heat pump unit.Best Christmas Lights Metairie Shut Off The PowerOutdoor Furniture Nicholasville Ky Due to the dangers of working around electricity and the air-conditioner’s moving parts, it’s essential to completely turn off power to the unit. On the exterior condenser/compressor, look for an exterior shut-off box near the unit. Indoors, also turn the power off at the breaker box. On the exterior condenser/compressor, remove the fan cage. Using a screwdriver or wrench, remove the fasteners and lift the cage or fan grill away from the top of the unit.

By hand, or with a wet/dry vacuum, clean leaves and other debris from the interior. With a strong stream from a garden hose, spray through the fins from the inside out to blast any built up dirt or debris from between them. Never use a pressure washer, since the pressure can damage the fins. If the fins are particularly dirty, use a commercially available fin cleaning spray (available at home improvement centers; read and follow manufacturer directions). Since any reduction in air-flow through the fins can reduce efficiency, carefully straighten bent fins using a butter knife or commercially available fin-straightening tool. Be gentle so that the tubing embedded within the fins is not damaged. Clean Area Around The Unit Once finished with the cleaning, replace the fan cage. Rake back leaves and debris outside the condenser and cut back branches and vegetation at least 2 feet in all directions to ensure proper airflow around the unit. During winter months when the condenser is not in use, it’s good to cover the top of the unit with a piece of plywood or plastic to keep debris from falling in.

However, don’t completely cover the unit’s sides, since moisture can build up inside and cause corrosion. Also, a completely covered unit encourages vermin to build nests inside. Remove any cover when the unit is operating. Over time, the pad upon which the condenser unit sits can begin to tip as the soil settles beneath it. An out-of-level condenser unit can cause the compressor within to fail early. Check the condenser for level and use rot-resistant shims to bring it back to level. Service Experts’ Moody adds this exception: “If you have a heat pump system, it’s okay for the pad to be slightly sloped away from the home’s foundation to allow for defrost run-off during the winter.” Clean the Evaporator Coil Now it’s time to move inside. On the inside blower/furnace unit, find the evaporator coil door. You may need to remove some foil duct tape and take out a few screws or bolts. Inside, use a soft brush to dust off the coil, then spray the coil with commercially available no-rinse coil cleaner (available at home improvement stores).

The spray will foam up and then drip into the drain pan. Clean out the drain pan with soap, hot water, and a little bleach. Then, pour a cup of 50% bleach/50% water down the drain. To keep the drain clear longer-term, place a commercially available drain pan tablet in the pan. This will inhibit future algae growth. If the bleach solution drains easily, skip the next step. If not, move on to next step. Replace the evaporator coil door and use foil duct tape to re-seal, if necessary. Clean a Plugged Evaporator Drain On the interior, warm, humid air from your home’s interior is blown through the evaporator coil. The cold coil absorbs heat from the air, cooling it, before the air is circulated back into your home. The humidity in the air condenses on the cool surface of the evaporator coil as liquid water, dripping into a pan below. From the pan, the water flows into a drain tube which is typically routed into a basement floor drain, utility sink, or outdoors. Over time, algae and mold can build up and potentially plug the drain, so if the drain is either not flowing or flowing very slowly, it will need to be unplugged.

A plugged drain can either cause damage by flooding onto the floor or, if the system is equipped with a drain float, cause the system to stop cooling in order to avoid flooding. First, find the drain line where it leaves the evaporator coil enclosure. The drain is usually a one-inch PVC pipe (white, grey, or black). Follow it to the end where it drains. Often the line drains outside near the condenser unit, but it can also drain into a utility sink or basement floor drain or, in the case of attic units, down an outside wall. Once located, use a wet/dry vacuum to clear the drain. It’s best to remove the paper filter from the wet/dry vacuum so as not to ruin the filter. Hold the hose of the wet/dry vacuum to the end of the drain line. You can use duct tape or simply hold a rag around the gap. Turn on the vacuum for 2-3 minutes then turn off. This will clear the drain of any growing biological matter. Change The Blower Filter The filter in your HVAC system should be changed at least twice a year – once just before the heating season begins and once before the cooling season begins.

If you live in a particularly dusty area, you may want to change it more often. Always replace the filter with a new filter that has the same airflow rating. Again, Moody cautions, “Be careful with ‘air purifying’ or HEPA filters,” he says, “because they can dramatically reduce airflow in your system. That can cause the indoor coil to freeze because of the reduced airflow.” Locate the filter enclosure on the indoor furnace/AC where the large fresh air return duct enters the unit. You may need a screwdriver to turn the latch to open the door to the filter enclosure. Remove the old filter and install the new filter, matching the air-flow direction arrows on the filter to the arrows on the unit. Close and latch the door. Turn The Power Back On While these steps will help to keep your AC system in top shape, be aware that there are maintenance items that only a trained HVAC technician will be able to do. For example, a slow refrigerant leak in your AC system can lead to expensive compressor failure, but a homeowner doesn’t have the tools or skills necessary to check refrigerant levels.