Edit ArticleHow to Repair a Delta Brand Kitchen Faucet How to replace all of the gaskets and springs in a Delta brand Single-Handle kitchen faucet. These are also called "ball faucets." Purchase a replacement parts kit from a reputable hardware store, such as Home Depot. Carefully close the shut-off valves beneath the sink. Using the allen wrench supplied in the kit, loosen the set screw that holds the handle in place. The plastic ring inset in the chrome-dome is adjustable and can be used to increase or decrease the pressure on the internal components. Remove the chrome-dome by turning counter-clockwise. Gently remove the plastic disc which sits on top of the ball. Gently remove the ball. In the bottom of the socket you should see two black rubber pieces. Insert the new springs into the two holes. Repeat item #9 for the other washer. Gently remove the faucet arm from the upright shaft by pulling upward on it while rotating it.

With the faucet arm removed you will see two large black washers that encircle the upright shaft. Replace the faucet arm by pressing down firmly on it while rotating it side to side. Replace the ball into the socket keeping the alignment of the ball in mind.Renault Clio Tyre Speed Rating Seat the large black gasket into the plastic disc and then seat the gasket & disc assembly onto the ball.Car Rental Yarmouth Nova Scotia Loosen the plastic ring inset into the chrome-dome.Warehouse For Sale 33155 Install the chrome dome. Tighten the chrome-dome onto the assembly. Tighten the plastic ring inset so that things are tight, but nothing binds. Replace the handle onto the shaft and tighten with the allen wrench.

Check to make sure that you don't have any extra parts. Turn on the water at the valves and check for leaks. Clean up after yourself and put your tools away. Remember, nothing in this whole procedure should be hard to do except removing and replacing the chrome-dome. If anything else seems hard, check your alignment. Store the old parts in a Ziploc bag in case of failure.New gaskets should stop the dripping from your kitchen faucet. Delta single-handle ball valve faucets are among the least troublesome to repair, although the fact the valve is spring loaded can make disassembly a little finicky. When one of these faucets starts to leak, it's usually because one or both of the gaskets or springs in the valve seat are worn out. You usually can find a repair kit for your model at the hardware store, and if not, a universal repair kit often works. In some cases, the ball itself is causing the leak. If you have to replace it, you need the one for that specific model.

Turn off the water before you start by closing the shutoff valves in the cabinet under the sink. Open the faucet to the hot, then the cold side to let the water drain. Unscrew the hex nut holding the handle with a 1/8-inch Allen wrench. The nut should be right under the handle. It may be hidden by a plug; if so, pry off the plug with a flat-head screwdriver. Put on a rubber glove to increase traction, grip the collar on the top of faucet body and turn it counterclockwise. If it won't turn, wrap the glove around the collar and use adjustable pliers to turn it. Remove the collar carefully while keeping a little downward pressure on the faucet stem to prevent the ball from popping up and letting springs fly out. Remove the ball, and pry out the gaskets and springs from the water inlet holes in the bottom of the valve seat, using a flat-head screwdriver. These are the parts you have to replace to stop the faucet from leaking. If it is full of mineral deposits that may be preventing the gaskets from sealing, chip them off with the screwdriver.

You also can immerse the ball in white vinegar overnight to dissolve the deposits. If the ball is cracked or chipped, replace it with a new one. Put the new springs inside the new gaskets and drop the assemblies into the holes in the valve seat. An easy way to place them is to fit them around the tip of a screwdriver, use the screwdriver to push them into place, then hold them with your finger while you remove the screwdriver. Set the ball back into the valve seat and screw on the collar. Wrap the rubber glove around it and tighten it with adjustable pliers. Set the handle back in place and tighten the retaining screw, then turn the water back on and check for leaks. Make repairs to your Delta single- or 2-handle faucet with the Delta Repair Kit for Delta Faucets. The kit comes with O-rings, seats, springs, cam assemblies and a wrench. Works with most Delta single and 2-handle faucets Included wrench helps make repairs easy Genuine Delta parts have a lifetime limited warranty

Includes cam assemblies, O-rings, seats and springs This question is from Repair Kit for Faucets2 How do I hold the springs and seats in place for reassembly? This question is from Repair Kit for Faucets1 How do I find out what model my faucet is? This question is from Repair Kit for Faucets1 which repair kit should I use We have a series 978-dst faucet and the handle leaks water, what repair kit should we use? This question is from Repair Kit for Faucets1 The hot side of kit faucet is oozing water and has play in it. Do I need a cartridge or a repair kit?Know Before You Shop for Faucet Repair Materials This is one of those projects where you need to stop halfway through to go to Lowe’s for the parts you’ll need. That’s because many parts look similar. The best way to avoid confusion is to compare actual parts from your disassembled faucet to what’s available. A Lowe’s assistant can help you pick out the correct replacements. Water shutoff valves under your sink can feel like they’re locked in the open position after years of disuse.

Use care (and not too much muscle) when closing them, especially if the job requires a pair of groove-joint pliers. If your faucet has no manufacturer’s labeling on the outside, it may be an older off-brand model that can’t be repaired. Even for older name-brand faucets, original manufacturers’ parts may not be available. Check the maker’s website for model number and part information. The aerator is the piece that screws onto the end of the faucet spout. By mixing air with the water, the aerator reduces splashing and helps conserve water. But it also tends to corrode and get gunked up with minerals in hard water. If you can’t remove and clean it with a soak in white vinegar, toss an inexpensive replacement aerator into your shopping cart. At a minimum, you’ll need new seats (cylinder-shaped washers) and springs to stop most leaks. If you notice worn spots, mineral build-up, or corrosion on the ball that rotates within the faucet, consider buying a replacement.

Take the ball assembly with you to the store to compare the number and placement of holes to potential replacements. Remove the Old Ball and Washers Shut off the water-supply valves beneath the sink. If your house doesn’t have individual shutoff valves, close the main water-supply valve for the whole house. Open the faucet and turn it to both the hot and cold sides to relieve any water pressure. If the handle isn’t held in place with a set screw, insert a nail or scratch awl in the notch along the round insert on top and pry the insert up until it’s free. Some common bath faucets used a lever in place of a faceted plastic ball. You can reach the set screw holding the lever on the faucet by prying out a small plastic insert in front beneath the lever. Then back out the set screw with a hex wrench to loosen the handle. Loosen the screw holding the plastic handle in place and tug the handle free. Good to KnowAs soon as you’ve loosened the handle screws, pull up on the rod that drops the drain stopper.

This keeps screws, springs, washers and other small parts from disappearing down the drain. Find the domelike collar around the handle. It may have flat edges on the outside along the top openings. This is a good place where an adjustable wrench or groove-joint pliers can get a grip and loosen it. By wrapping a thick cloth or rubber pad around the collar, you can gently grip the collar with your wrench without scratching the finish. Avoid squeezing too hard or you’ll bend the metal out of shape. Removing the metal collar will reveal a plastic-and-rubber insert (sometimes called a “cam”) and the ball assembly (a ball on a rod). Pull on the handle of the ball to pull both free of the faucet. Look carefully at the position of the holes on the ball as you pull it out of the faucet. This part (or a replacement) needs to go back in place in the same position. Look where the ball rested. You’ll see three holes -- two for the incoming water and one leading to the faucet spout.

Inside each water inlet, you’ll find the washers and springs that press against the ball. Use a small screwdriver to gently pry them free without scratching the inside of the faucet. Install the New Parts of Your Faucet Start the reassembly by installing the replacement seats and springs. To keep the seats and springs under control long enough to plant them inside the faucet, slide one of each onto the shaft of a small screwdriver and gently insert the screwdriver tip inside the water inlet hole. Then let the seat and spring slide into the hole and press it into place. Good to KnowGetting the seats to slip into the faucet holes can be tough. To help them slide in position, apply a tiny amount of petroleum jelly to the outside of the seat before inserting it into the faucet. Insert the ball assembly so that the holes in the ball align with the three holes inside the faucet body. Check that it moves freely. Then place the plastic-and-rubber cam over the ball. You should see a tab on one side of the cam that fits a slot in the faucet body.

Reattach the metal cap and hand-tighten it. (Don’t worry if the plastic adjustment ring accidentally rotates in the process.) The ball should feel loose inside the faucet after you install the cap. If it doesn’t move, loosen the adjustment ring and check the tightness of the metal cap. Gradually tighten the adjustment ring (if your faucet has one) until the ball feels snug in the faucet when you move the rod back and forth. You want the ball to press against the seats and springs without grinding against metal inside the faucet. Good to KnowIf you didn’t buy a replacement part set with a wrench for turning the adjustment ring, make your own turning tool by spreading the tips of a needle-nose pliers and inserting them in the notches of the ring. Attach the handle by reversing the method you used to remove it. Turn on the water supply under the sink and allow water to flow through the faucet. Check for leaks around the faucet and drips when you shut it off. If you notice any, remove the handle and tighten the adjustment ring a little more.